Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [306]
Sop Ruak
The borders of Myanmar, Thailand and Laos meet at Sop Ruak, the official ‘centre’ of the Golden Triangle, at the confluence of Nam Ruak and the Mekong River.
In historical terms, ‘Golden Triangle’ actually refers to a much larger geographic area, stretching thousands of square kilometres into Myanmar, Laos and Thailand, within which the opium trade was prevalent. Nevertheless hoteliers and tour operators have been quick to cash in on the name by referring to the tiny village of Sop Ruak as ‘the Golden Triangle’, conjuring up images of illicit adventure, exotic border areas and opium caravans.
But that’s all history, and today the only caravan you’re likely to see is the endless parade of huge buses carrying package tourists. The opium is now fully relegated to museums, and even the once-beautiful natural setting has largely been obscured by ATMs, countless stalls selling tourist tat, and the loud announcements from the various temples.
On the good side, the two opium-related museums, the House of Opium (right) and Hall of Opium (right), are both worth a visit, and a boat trip is an enjoyable way to pass an hour. But the only reason to consider a stay here is if you’ve already booked a room in one of the area’s outstanding luxury hotels.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The first sight you’ll inevitably see in Sop Ruak is Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin (7am-9pm), a giant Buddha statue financed by a Thai-Chinese foundation. The statue straddles a boat-like platform, and visitors here are encouraged to donate by rolling coins from an elevated platform behind the statue.
The House of Opium (Baan Phin; 0 5378 4060; www.houseofopium.com; admission 50B; 7am-8pm), a small museum with historical displays pertaining to opium culture, is worth a peek. Exhibits include all the various implements used in the planting, harvest, use and trade of the Papaver somniferum resin, including pipes, weights, scales and so on, plus photos and maps with labels in English. The museum is at the southeastern end of Sop Ruak, virtually across from Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin.
Next to the House of Opium are some steps up to Wat Phra That Pu Khao, from where you get the best viewpoint of the Mekong meeting of Laos, Myanmar and Thailand.
On the Burmese side of the river junction stands the Golden Triangle Paradise Resort (053 652 111; r 3500-400B, ste 7000B), a huge hotel and casino financed by Thai and Japanese business partners who have leased nearly 480 hectares from the Myanmar government. The casino is open 24 hours, but visits can only be arranged from 8am to 6pm, when immigration posts are open. Only two currencies – baht and dollars – are accepted at the hotel and casino.
One kilometre south of Sop Ruak on a plot of about 40 hectares opposite the Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa, the Mah Fah Luang Foundation has established the 5600-sq-m Hall of Opium (0 5378 4444; www.goldentrianglepark.com; Mu 1 Baan Sobruak; admission 300B; 10am-3.30pm). The goal of this impressive facility is to become the world’s leading exhibit and research facility for the study of opiate use around the world. This multimedia exhibition includes a fascinating history of opium, and examines the effects of abuse on individuals and society. Well balanced and worth seeing.
For Mekong River Cruises (1hr cruise max 5 people per boat 400B), local long-tail boat trips can be arranged through several local agents or at the various piers. The typical trip involves a circuit around a large island and upriver for a view of the Burmese casino hotel. There’s a fee of 700B (500B to the Burmese side, 200B to the Thais) to go onto the casino island for the day (they’ll stamp you in and out at the same time).
You can also arrange to stop off at a Lao village on the large river island of Don Sao, roughly halfway between Sop Ruak and Chiang Saen. The Lao immigration booth here is happy to allow day visitors onto the island without a Lao visa. A 20B arrival tax is collected from each visitor. There’s not a lot to see, but there’s an official post office where you can mail letters