Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [307]
SLEEPING & EATING
The only reason to stay in or around Sop Ruak is to take advantage of some of northern Thailand’s best upscale lodgings. Those on a budget are advised to go to Chiang Saen. There are several tourist-oriented restaurants overlooking the Mekong River.
Greater Mekong Lodge (0 5378 4450; www.maefahluang.org; s/d 1600/1800B; ) Part of the Hall of Opium compound, this hotel has 28 well-equipped rooms with cable TV in the cavernous, stark main building. But for the same price, the 13 elevated bungalows are the better choice.
Imperial Golden Triangle Resort (0 5378 4001/5; www.imperialhotels.com; 222 Ban Sop Ruak; r 4708-5290B; ) Another first-class option, this huge hotel is located a brief walk from all of Sop Ruak’s tourist services. Rooms include balconies with impressive river views.
Anantara Golden Triangle Resort & Spa (0 5378 4084; www.anantara.com; r/ste from 10,900/15,200B; ) This award-winning resort takes up a large patch of beautifully landscaped ground directly opposite the Hall of Opium (opposite). The rooms combine Thai and international themes, and all have balconies looking over the Mekong. A Jacuzzi, squash and tennis courts, gym, sauna, library, medical clinic and spa round out the luxury amenities. Special attractions include the King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament (held in March) and one- to three-day mahout-training packages.
Four Seasons Tented Camp (0 5391 0200; www.fourseasons.com; minimum 3-night stay 220,000B; ) If you can fit it into your schedule (and budget), this safari-inspired ‘tented camp’ is among the most truly unique accommodation experiences in Thailand. Located at a secluded spot of riverside jungle outside Sop Ruak, a brief boat ride is necessary to reach the vast compound of 15 hillside tents. The tents are luxurious and decked out in colonial-era safari paraphernalia, the focus of which is an incredibly inviting copper and resin bathtub. There’s no TV or iPod dock, rather guests are encouraged to take in the natural setting (tip: tent 15 looks over an elephant bathing area) and take part in daily activities, which range from mahout training to spa treatment. A minimum stay of at least three nights is required, and the fee covers every aspect of the stay, from airport pick up to food and drink.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are frequent srng·ta·ou between Chiang Saen and Sop Ruak (20B, every 20 minutes from 7am to 5pm). It’s an easy bicycle ride of 9km from Chiang Saen to Sop Ruak.
CHIANG KHONG
pop 12,311
More remote yet livelier than its neighbour Chiang Saen, Chiang Khong is historically an important market town for local hill tribes and for trade with northern Laos. At one time the city was part of a small meuang (city-state) called Juon, founded in AD 701 by King Mahathai. Over the centuries Juon paid tribute to Chiang Rai, then Chiang Saen and finally Nan before being occupied by the Siamese in the 1880s. The territory of Chiang Khong extended all the way to Yunnan Province in China until the French turned much of the Mekong River’s northern bank into French Indochina in 1893.
Today the riverside town is a popular traveller’s gateway into Laos. From Huay Xai, on the opposite side of the Mekong, it’s a two-day slow boat trip to Luang Prabang. And for those who have set their sights even further, Huay Xai is only an eight-hour bus ride from Boten, a legal border crossing to and from China – Click here for more information.
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Information
Si Ayuthaya, Kasikornbank and Siam Commercial Bank have branches in town with ATMs and foreign-exchange services.
Easy Trip (0 5365 5174, 0 8997 7246; www.discoverylaos.com; 63/2 Moo 1, Th Sai Klang; 8am-8pm) This very professional travel agency organises boats and buses to Laos ( Click here), as well as minibuses to Chiang Mai (250B) and Pai (450B). Flights in Thailand and to Laos can be booked here. Many guesthouses in Chiang