Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [308]
Internet (Th Sai Klang; per hr 30B; 10am-10pm) On the main street roughly across from Bamboo Mexican House ( Click here).
Sights
Chiang Khong has a few northern Thai-style wát of minor interest. Wat Luang, on the main road, was once one of the most important temples in Chiang Rai Province and features a chedi dating from the 13th century, which was restored in 1881.
On a hill overlooking the town and the river is a Nationalist Chinese Soldiers Cemetery, where more than 200 KMT soldiers are buried. The grave mounds are angled on the hill so that they face China. A shrine containing old photos of KMT soldiers-in-arms stands at the top of the hill.
The nearby village of Ban Hat Khrai is famous as being one of the few places where lah bèuk (giant Mekong catfish) are still occasionally caught. During the lah bèuk season, late-April to June, you may catch the small fishing boats coming and going from Tha Pla Beuk, about 1.5km south of Chiang Khong on the Mekong; the turn-off is near Km137. For more information on this fish, see the boxed text, Click here.
Sleeping
The vast majority of accommodation in Chiang Khong is geared towards the budget market.
Baanrimtaling (0 5379 1613; maleewan_th@yahoo.com; 99/4 Mu 3, Baan Sop Som; dm 80B, r 160-350B, bungalows 450B; ) The rooms here are pretty run-of-the-mill for this price range, and the location isn’t exactly ideal, but the home-like atmosphere and gentle service may have you staying a bit longer than you planned. Great river views certainly don’t hurt, and extras like free wi-fi, a Thai-style herbal sauna and Thai cooking lessons seal the deal.
Baan-Fai Guest House (0 5379 1394; 108 Moo 8, Th Sai Klang; r 100-200B) The eight rooms here are located in an attractive wooden Thai home; unfortunately the rooms don’t quite live up to the exterior. They’re clean though, and represent a decent choice if funds are running low.
Boom House (0 5365 5136; www.boomhouseresort.com; 406/1 Moo 1, Th Sai Klang; r 150-350B; ) This multilevel place has a variety of plain but tidy rooms, the more expensive of which have air-con, TV and fridge. There is a pleasant restaurant right on the riverbank.
Reuan Thai Sophaphan (0 5379 1023; sukatungka@gmail.com; 83 Moo 8, Th Sai Klang; r 300-600B;) This guesthouse/resort/homestay (the terms are used both interchangeably and gratuitously) is a beautiful, multifloor teak building with heaps of character. The rooms can be slightly dark, however, and none take full advantage of the river views. Discounts are available, and cheaper rooms can be found at an equally rambling compound of wooden buildings across the street that are run by the same people.
Ban Tammila (0 5379 1234; baantammila@hotmail.com; 113 Mu 8 Th Sai Klang; bungalows 350/450B, r 350B) Although the exterior looks a bit ragged, the stylish rooms and well-designed bungalows here are neat and decorated in warm colours. This relaxing place can also organise bicycle trips.
PP Home (Baan Pak Pon; 0 5365 5092; baanpakpon@hotmail.com; 177/Moo 2; r 350-500B;) One of a dwindling number of accommodation still owned by locals, this attractive wooden house features large rooms with wood panelling, each with a private balcony looking over the river.
Chiangkhong River View Hotel (0 5379 1375; www.chiangkhong.com/riverviewhotel.htm; 141 Moo 12; r 500B; ) At the southern end of town, this tall building holds several virtually identical tiny rooms, all with air-con, TV and fridge. Locally owned, and a good value.
Portside Hotel (0 5365 5238; portsidehotel@hotmail.com; 546 Moo 1, Th Sai Klang; r 600B; ) This new, smart hotel features two floors of tidy but slightly cramped rooms. There are no river views, but a communal rooftop area makes up for this. Free wi-fi and other services are also available.
Namkhong Riverside Hotel (0 5379 1796; 174-176 Th Sai Klang; r incl breakfast 800-1000B; ) Perhaps the first sign that things are (slowly) moving upscale in Chiang Khong, this modern three-storey hotel holds heaps of clean, neat rooms, most with private balconies overlooking