Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [310]
At the moment the greatest threats to the wild Mekong catfish’s survival are the planned construction of 11 dams across the Mekong River, a potential obstacle to the fish’s migration, and the blasting of Mekong River rapids in China, which is robbing the fish of important breeding grounds.
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Nang Nuan (0 5365 5567; Ban Hat Khrai; dishes 30-150B; 9am-midnight) The menu here boasts that the restaurant is ‘At the first great catfish’s reproduction place’, but it isn’t all about the captivating locality; they also do some tasty food. Freshwater fish from the Mekong is the emphasis here, and it’s prepared in a variety of ways, as the extensive English-language menu describes. A few local dishes are available too.
Bamboo Mexican House (0 5379 1621; 1 Moo 8, Th Sai Klang; dishes 30-180B; 7am-8pm) Run by the manager of a now-defunct guesthouse, the chef of this tiny restaurant/bakery learned to make Mexican dishes from her American and Mexican guests. To be honest, though, we never got past the delicious homemade breads and cakes. Opens early, and boxed lunches can be assembled for the boat ride.
Lomtawan (0 5365 5740; 354 Moo 8, Th Sai Klang; dishes 60-180B; lunch & dinner) If you don’t require river views, this cosy, candlelit home is a great dinner option. The English-language menu is extensive and includes daring options such as green curry with salmon. Stay late, and the soundtrack becomes live and the place gradually transforms into an intimate bar.
Getting There & Away
There are frequent buses to Chiang Rai (70B, 2½ hours, every hour from 4am to 5pm); there are also frequent buses going to/from Chiang Saen.
There are a few morning buses to Chiang Mai (2nd class air-con/VIP 225/290B, 6am to 11am).
To Bangkok (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 529/680/794B, 12 hours, 3.30pm), arrive at the bus stop at least 30 minutes early, or buy tickets in advance from the office or from Easy Trip ( Click here).
Boats taking up to 10 passengers can be chartered up the Mekong River from Chiang Khong to Chiang Saen for around 2000B. Boat crews can be contacted at the pier for ferries to Laos.
BORDER CROSSING (LAOS)
Long-tail boats to Huay Xai, Laos (40B, from 8am to 6pm), leave frequently from Tha Reua Bak, a pier at the northern end of Chiang Khong.
Foreigners can purchase a 30-day visa for Laos upon arrival in Huay Xai for US$30 to $42, depending on nationality. There is an extra US$1 or 50B charge after 4pm and on weekends. Be sure to get an exit stamp from Thai officials before heading to Laos. Travellers who forget to do this find themselves in uncomfortable situations later on. On your return to Thailand, immigration will stamp you passport with a new 15-day visa ( Click here).
Once on the Lao side you can continue by road to Luang Nam Tha and Udomxai, or by boat down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. If you’re bound for the capital, Lao Airlines (211026, 211494; www.laoairlines.com) has flights from Huay Xai to Vientiane three times a week for US$94.
If time is on your side, the daily slow boat (900B, 10am) to Luang Prabang takes two days, including a night in the village of Pak Beng. Avoid the noisy fast boats (1450B, six to seven hours) that ply the Huay Xai to Luang Prabang route, as there have been reports of bad accidents. Booking tickets through an agent like Easy Trip ( Click here) costs slightly more, but they arrange tickets for you, provide transport from your guesthouse and across the Mekong River, and provide a boxed lunch for the boat ride.
BORDER CROSSING (CHINA)
If you already hold a Chinese visa, it’s now also possible to go more or less directly to China from Chiang