Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [311]
Getting Around
A shm·lór from the bus station to Tha Reua Bak, the border crossing to Laos, costs 30B.
Mountain bikes can be rented from Ban Tammila ( Click here) and Easy Trip ( Click here).
PHAYAO PROVINCE
Return to beginning of chapter
PHAYAO
pop 19,118
Few people, including many Thais, are aware of this quiet but attractive northern city. Perhaps in an overzealous effort to remedy this, a tourist brochure we came across described Phayao as ‘The Vienna of South East Asia’. Although this is just slightly stretching the truth, Phayao is certainly one of the more pleasant towns in northern Thailand. Its setting on Kwan Phayao, a vast wetland, gives the town a back-to-nature feel that’s utterly lacking in most Thai cities, and the tree-lined streets, temples and old wooden houses of ‘downtown’ Phayao provide a pleasing old-school Thai touch.
The little-visited town is the perfect place to break up your journey to/from Chiang Rai, or as a bookend to our suggested driving trip from Chiang Khong (see boxed text, Click here)
Return to beginning of chapter
Information
Internet@Cafe (Th Pratu Khlong; per hr 20B; 10am-10pm) Other shops offering internet access dot Th Don Sanam.
Krungsri Bank (Th Phasart; 8.30am-3.30pm) Located near the city pillar, this bank has a foreign exchange desk.
Post office (Th Don Sanam; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)
Sights & Activities
KWAN PHAYAO
This vast body of water is the largest swamp in northern Thailand and a symbol of Phayao. Although naturally occurring, the water level is artificially controlled, otherwise the wetlands would tend to go dry outside of the wet season. Framed by mountains, the swamp is in fact more scenic than the name suggests, and is the setting for what must be among the most beautiful sunsets in Thailand. Rowing crews can be seen practising in the evenings, and there’s a pier at the southern end of Th Chai Kwan where there are boat rides (20B) to what remains of Wat Tiloke Aram, a submerged 500-year-old temple. There are ambitious plans to rebuild the temple, one of many submerged religious structures in Kwan Phayao. In addition to lost Buddhist artefacts, there are at least 50 types of fish native to these waters, and there’s a small fish breeding area where for 5B you can feed the fish.
* * *
DETOUR: THE LONG WAY TO PHAYAO
If you’re in Chiang Khong and happen to have your own wheels, we have an excellent suggestion for a drive. Rtes 1155 and 1093 are among Thailand’s most dramatic land routes, hugging steep mountainsides along the Thai–Lao border and passing waterfalls, incredible vistas and national parks. If you need a destination you can continue all the way to Phayao, a little-visited province and town with ample accommodation and good food.
From Chiang Khong, the trip is as straightforward as heading south on Rte 1020 and following the signs to Phu Chi Fa, a national park near the Lao border. For Thailand, the signs are surprisingly clear, but a good companion is the Golden Triangle Rider’s Golden Triangle map.
At the mountaintop village of Doi Pha Tang, you can take a quick detour to Pratu Siam, at 1653m, one of Thailand’s most impressive viewpoints. There is basic lodging and food here.
Rte 1093 narrows and becomes markedly less populated as you approach Phu Chi Fa, a mountaintop that offers high-altitude views into Laos. There are a few different ways to approach the peak, the most popular being via Ban Rom Fah Thai. There is a variety of accommodation and some basic restaurants on either side of Phu Chi Fa.
Upon passing Phu Chi Fa, stay on Rte 1093 and follow the signs to Ban Huak. This is a picturesque village in Phayao province, 2km