Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [312]
From Ban Huak, follow signs to Chiang Kham, then take Rte 1021 to Chun, from where it’s a straight shot to Phayao (via Dok Kham Tai), itself another worthwhile destination ( Click here).
If you do the drive in one go, allow at least six hours, including stops for taking photos, coffee and a meal.
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WAT SRI KHOM KHAM
Phayao’s most important temple is thought to date back to 1491, but its present structure was finished in 1923. The immense prayer hall holds the Phra Jao Ton Luang, the largest Chiang Saen–era Buddha statue in the country. Standing 18m high, legend has it that the construction of the statue took more than 30 years. It’s not the most beautiful or well-proportioned Buddha image in Thailand, but it certainly is impressive. The ordination hall that is elevated over Kwan Phayao features graceful modern wall paintings. Also located on the grounds of the wát is a Buddhist sculpture garden, which includes gory, larger-than-life depictions of Buddhist hell.
Next door to the temple is the Phayao Cultural Exhibition Hall (0 5441 0058; admission 40B; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat), a two-storey museum packed with artefacts and a good amount of information on local history and culture in English. Standout items include a unique ‘black’ Buddha statue, and a fossil of two embracing crabs labelled ‘Wonder Lover’.
Other Attractions
Just off Rte 1 opposite the turn-off to Phayao, Wat Li features a small museum (admission by donation; 9am-3pm) with a decent variety of items from the Chiang Saen previous eras. Wat Phra That Jom Thong is an attractive chedi on a wooded hilltop 3km from the centre of town.
Sleeping
Tharn Thong Hotel (0 5443 1302; 56-59 Th Don Sanam; d 150-350B; ) Stark fan-cooled rooms are available in the main building, while more comfortable air-con rooms can be found in the complex behind it.
Wattana Hotel (%0 5443 1203; 69 Th Don Sanam; fan/air-con 150/280B; ) Next to the Tharn Thong, Wattana offers a nearly identical package, but the rooms aren’t quite as tidy as its neighbour’s.
Phuthong Place (0 5441 0505; 335 Moo 3, Th Pratu Khlong; r 500B; ) The rooms at Phuthong are large, spotless and comfortable, making the place excellent value. It’s also just a short walk from the night market along Th Rob Wiang.
Phayao Northern Lake Hotel (0 5441 1123; 15/7 Th Rob Wiang; r 400-600B; ) This large hotel, a short walk from the bus terminal, offers slightly aged but comfortable rooms. The cheaper rooms are rather small, but they’re well equipped.
Gateway Hotel (0 5441 1333; 7/36 Soi 2, Th Pratu Khlong; d 800B, ste 1800B; ) Despite being the city’s most upmarket hotel, the rooms here are a bit on the tired side, although the ‘sea view’ rooms on the upper floors do boast great views of Kwan Phayao.
Eating & Drinking
For such a small town, Phayao has an amazing abundance of food, much of it quite good. During the day, dozens of vendors sell similar repertoires of grilled fish and papaya salad along the northern end of Th Chai Kwan. Kaat Boran, a largely food-based night market, sets up every evening from 6pm to 10pm around the King Ngam Muang monument. Another incredibly extensive night market convenes along the north side of Th Rob Wiang every evening.
There are literally dozens of lakefront restaurants along Kwan Phayao, beginning at Th Kwan and extending all the way to the public park. Of these, Chuechan (no roman-script sign; 0 5448 4670; Th Chai Kwan; dishes 60-120B; 10am-10.30pm) has received the most acclaim from the various Thai food authorities. The lengthy menu, which has both pictures and English, spans dishes you won’t find elsewhere, such as stuffed pig leg or sour fish fried with egg. There’s no English sign, but the restaurant is the tallest building on this stretch of Th Chai Kwan.
Khao Soi Saeng Phian (no roman-script sign; Th Tha Kwan; dishes 25-40B; 9am-3pm) One of the better bowls