Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [313]
Miracle Coffee (08 4047 7375; cnr Th Chai Kwan & Th Ratchawong; dishes 25-60B; 9am-midnight) During the day this lakefront shop is a casual cafe. Come dark, it transforms into a lively bar popular among locals.
Laap Kai Tawan Daeng (no roman-script sign; 08 1033 2089; 37/2 Th Phasart; dishes 49-79B; 11am-midnight) The speciality here is delicious northern-style lâhp gài, minced chicken mixed with crispy deep-fried herbs. The restaurant is most fun in the evenings when it becomes a typical upcountry pub, complete with live music. Look for the large rooster out front.
Tem Im (no roman-script sign; cnr Th Harinsut & Th Pratu Khlong; per person 89B; 6-11pm) Extremely popular with locals, this open-air restaurant is a type of do-it-yourself, all-you-can-eat barbeque. Simply load up on whatever raw ingredients you fancy, then grill them over coals at your table. Not a dish to be enjoyed alone, mo gà·tá is best eaten with lots of friends and even more beer.
Getting There & Away
Phayao’s bus station is quite busy, primarily because the city lies on the main north–south highway.
There are frequent buses to Chiang Rai (ordinary/2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 49/88/103/119B, two hours, every 40 minutes from 7am to 5pm) and two to Nan (2nd class air-con 139B, four hours, 8am and 1.30pm). To Chiang Mai (2nd class air-con/1st class 127/164B, three hours, every 40 minutes from 7.30am to 5.30pm), be sure to ask for the si mài (new route); departures along the si gòw (old route) are cheaper (ordinary/2nd class air-con/VIP 73/102/239B, five hours), but take a longer, circuitous route.
To Bangkok, there are a few morning and a few afternoon buses that depart from Phayao (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 461/592/920B, 11 hours), but it’s also possible to hop on one of the 40 or so buses that pass through the station from points further north.
PHRAE PROVINCE
Phrae is a rural, mountainous province most often associated with teak. Despite a nationwide ban on logging, there’s not a whole lot of the hardwood left, and the little that does exist is under threat (see boxed text, Click here).
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PHRAE
pop 17,971
Walking around the old city of Phrae one is struck by similarities with the historical Lao city of Luang Prabang: ample greenery, traditional wood buildings and scenic temples dominate the scenery, and monks form a significant part of the traffic. The city’s residents must be among the friendliest folks in Thailand, and Phrae’s location on the banks of the Mae Nam Yom and its ancient wall invite comparisons with Chiang Mai. Despite all this, Phrae is a little-visited city and a great destination for those who require little more than a few low-key attractions, good local food and cheery company.
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Information
CAT office (Th Charoen Meuang; 8am-8pm) Attached to the main post office. Long-distance calls can be made and you can use a T-card to access the internet.
Government Savings Bank (Th Rong Saw; 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) The ATM is next to the police station.
Krung Thai Bank (Th Charoen Meuang; 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Foreign-exchange service and ATM.
Modern (Th Charoen Meuang; per hr 20B; 10am-10pm) An internet/online games shop located near Pratu Chai.
Nok Bin (08 9433 3285; www.nokbinphrae.th.gs; 24 Th Wichairacha; 10am-6pm) Khun Kung, a local journalist, and her husband have created two cheery cafes that also function as informal information centres for visitors. The couple prints a tourist map of Phrae that is updated regularly and can also arrange bicycle or motorcycle rental. The second, smaller branch of Nok Bin is near Pratu Chai, at the entrance to the old city.
Phrae Hospital (0 5452 2444) Just east of Th Chaw Hae,