Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [315]
In 2008 Samak Sundaravej became the most recent prime minister to revive plans to build the dam. When confronted with concerns of the dam’s potential environmental impact, Samak claimed that there were no teak trees and only ‘three stupid peacocks’ left in the area (the comments were made on World Environment Day, and Samak also claimed that the dam would reduce the effects of global warming). Villagers in Sa-Iab reacted to the comments by burning an effigy of Samak and ‘ordaining’ several golden teak trees near Kaeng Sua Ten with orange monastic robes, a method of environmental protest that makes the trees ‘sacred’ and thus less likely to be cut down.
For now the project is at a stalemate, but this is largely due to political instability rather than any change in government policy. What is certain is that plans to build a dam at Kaeng Sua Ten have caused many to question the concept of development in Thailand, and will continue to embody the struggle between poor rural Thais, who have little say in the development of their own environment, and the often authoritarian rule of the Bangkok-based central Thai government.
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VONGBURI HOUSE
The two-storey teak house of the last prince of Phrae has been converted into a private museum (0 5462 0153; 50 Th Kham Leu; admission 30B; 8am-5pm). It was constructed between 1897 and 1907 for Luang Phongphibun and his wife Chao Sunantha, who once held a profitable teak concession in the city. Elaborate carvings on gables, eaves, balconies and above doors and windows are in good condition. Inside, many of the house’s 20 rooms display late-19th-century teak antiques, documents (including early-20th-century slave concessions), photos and other artefacts from the bygone teak-dynasty era. Most are labelled in English as well as Thai.
PRATUBJAI HOUSE
On the outskirts of the town is Pratubjai House (Impressive House; 0 5451 1282; admission 40B; 8am-5pm), a large northern Thai–style teak house that was built using more than 130 teak logs, each over 300 years old. Opened in 1985, the house took four years to build, using timber taken from nine old rural houses. The interior pillars are ornately carved. The house is also filled with souvenir vendors and is rather tackily decorated, so don’t take the moniker ‘impressive’ too seriously.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Thepviman (0 1595 0153; 76-78 Charoen Meuang; r 100-170B) These very basic rooms with cold-water showers, some of which come with Western toilets, are a reasonable choice for baht-pinching travellers.
Ajarn Phraiwan’s Homestay (08 1764 8447; 1 Th Weera; r 150B) This enterprising local language teacher has opened up her vast wooden house to foreign guests. The six rooms are simply furnished and share a bathroom. There’s no sign here; simply look for the vegetarian restaurant that she also runs.
Nakhon Phrae Hotel (0 5451 1122; fax 0 5452 1937; 29 Th Ratsadamnoen; r 290-400B; ) Being the closest accommodation to the old city has made this large hotel the most popular, but not necessarily the best budget option. Rooms definitely look their age and have tiny bathrooms, but are mostly clean and comfortable.
Bua Khao (0 5451 1372; 8 Soi 1, Th Charoen Meuang; r 350-600B; ) Tucked just off the main road, this teak monstrosity has mostly tiny rooms, but heaps of character. Service is great and there’s an inviting communal area (involving even more wood) on the ground floor.
Paradorn Hotel (0 5451 1177; www.phrae-paradorn.th.gs; 177 Th Yantarakitkoson; r 360-650B, ste 800B; ) Probably the best budget option in town, you can’t miss this place with its Burmese-style facade. The fan-cooled rooms have private balconies, and all rates include a simple breakfast. The hotel is on both sides of Th Yantarakitkoson,