Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [316]
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Phoomthai Garden (0 5462 7359; svoaph@yahoo.com; 31 Th Sasiboot; r incl breakfast 700-900B, bungalows & ste incl breakfast 1200B; ) Although it’s a bit of a hike from the old town, this hotel is the best all-around choice in town. The rooms are modern and comfortable, and all have balconies overlooking the hotel’s attractive garden. There are even a few wooden bungalows with huge bathrooms and inviting tubs.
Nakhon Phrae Tower (0 5452 1321; nakornphrae@yahoo.com; 3 Th Meuang Hit; s/d incl breakfast 700/900B, ste incl breakfast 2100-2500B; ) A large business-class hotel, this sister to the Nakhon Phrae lies a bit further from the old city.
Maeyom Palace Hotel (0 5452 1029-35; wccphrae@hotmail.com; 181/6 Th Yantarakitkoson; r incl breakfast 900-2000B, ste incl breakfast 3500-4000B; ) Opposite the bus terminal, Phrae’s top-end option has all the modern amenities: carpeted rooms with cable TV, sofa and minibar, and the city’s only hotel pool. Discounts of up to 30% are typical in the low season.
Eating & Drinking
A small but fun night market convenes just outside the Pratu Chai (Victory Gate) intersection every evening. The vendor in front of the Chinese shrine makes tasty sôm·am, tiny but tasty bowls of kà·nm jeen nám ngée·o (rice noodle dishes) and dishes of kôw sôm, a northern dish of rice cooked with tomatoes.
Pan Jai (no roman-script sign; 0 5462 0727; 2 Th Weera; dishes 20-40B; 7am-4pm) This open-air place combines everything we like in a restaurant; delicious local eats, attractive setting, good service and low prices. The emphasis is on kà·nm jeen, fresh rice noodles served with various curries and herbs, but there are a couple of different kinds of noodle soups, a variety of rice dishes and more. Everything’s on display, so simply point to whatever looks tastiest.
Kham Pan Koey (no roman-script sign; cnr Th Rawp Meuang & Th Charoen Meuang; dishes 25-40B; 10am-10pm) This recently refurbished shophouse across from Pratu Chai serves a bit of everything, from sôm·am to rice and noodle dishes. Ice cream and an arsenal of drinks are also there to help beat the heat.
Ban Nai Suan (Route Beat; Th Weera; dishes 30-40B; 11am-midnight) During the day, this ‘house in the garden’ serves up a short menu of local dishes. At night, the venue changes to Route Beat, and a Thai menu is served to the sounds of live music.
Sod Cheon (Th Yantarakitkoson; dishes 30-90B; 11am-4am) On the crossroads, 50m north of the Maeyom Palace Hotel, is this simple but very popular Chinese/Thai restaurant. Choose from the big pots of Chinese-style soups or go for your usual Thai dishes. Good for late night eats. The menu is in Thai only.
There are several restaurants serving local dishes along Rte 1022 as one approaches Wat Phra That Cho Hae ( Click here).
Shopping
Phrae is known for the distinctive sêua môr hôrm, the indigo-dyed cotton farmer’s shirt seen all over Thailand. The cloth is made in Ban Thung Hong, just outside of the city. A good place to buy môr hôrm in town is Maw Hawm Anian (no roman-script sign; 36 Th Charoen Muang; 7am-8.30pm), a shop about 60m from the southeastern gate (Pratu Chai) into the old city.
Getting There & Away
BUS
Unlike most cities in Thailand, Phrae’s bus terminal is conveniently located within walking distance of a few accommodation choices.
Come afternoon, there are frequent buses to Den Chai (15B, 30 minutes, every hour from 3.30pm to 7pm). Srng·ta·ou also travel to Den Chai (40B, from 6am to 6pm), departing from next to the vocational college. From Den Chai you can catch the northern train line.
There are frequent buses to Nan (ordinary/2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 65/88/112/174B, two hours, every hour from 7am to 8.30pm). Buses to Chiang Mai (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 147/189/294B, four hours) pass through Lampang and Lamphun on their way to the city. Buses that stop in Chiang Rai (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 160/205/239B, four hours, every hour from 7am to 4pm) often continue on to Mae Sai (2nd class air-con/1st