Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [317]
There are also several buses to Bangkok (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 340/437/680B, eight hours), leaving from 9.15am to noon and from 6.30pm to 10.30pm.
TRAIN
Den Chai train station (0 5461 3260) is 23km from Phrae. There are frequent blue srng·ta·ou and red buses between Phrae and the station (30B to 40B).
There are eight trains that stop in Den Chai on the way to Bangkok (3rd class fan 256B, 2nd class air-con/fan 574/394B, 2nd class fan sleeper upper/lower 494/544B, 2nd class air-con sleeper upper/lower 754/844B, 1st class sleeper 1272B, 12 hours), most passing the station between 5.30pm and 11pm. To check the most up-to-date timetables and prices in advance call the State Railway of Thailand (free 24hr hotline 1690; www.railway.co.th) or look at their website.
Getting Around
A shm·lór anywhere in the old town costs 30B; further afield to somewhere like Pratubjai House it can cost up to 60B. Motorcycle taxis are available at the bus terminal; a trip from here to, say, Pratu Chai should cost around 40B.
Shared srng·ta·ou ply a few of the roads (mainly Th Yantarakitkoson) and cost 10B to 20B, depending on the distance.
AROUND PHRAE
Return to beginning of chapter
Wat Phra That Cho Hae
On a hill about 9km southeast of town off Rte 1022, this wát is famous for its 33m-high gilded chedi. Cho Hae is the name of the cloth that worshippers wrap around the chedi – it’s a type of satin thought to have originated in Xishuangbanna (Sipsongpanna, literally ‘12,000 Rice Fields’ in northern Thai), China. Like Chiang Mai’s Wat Doi Suthep, this is an important pilgrimage site for Thais living in the north. Tiered naga stairs lead to the temple compound.
The interior of the bòht is rather tackily decorated with a gilded wooden ceiling, rococo pillars and walls with lotus-bud mosaics. The Phra Jao Than Jai Buddha image here, which is similar in appearance to the Phra Chinnarat in Phitsanulok, is reputed to impart fertility to women who make offerings to it.
The scenery along the road leading to the wát is picturesque and there is also an abundance of restaurants serving local dishes. Srng·ta·ou between Phrae and Phra That Cho Hae (30B) are frequent.
Phae Meuang Phi
The name Phae Meuang Phi means ‘Ghost-Land’, a reference to this strange geological phenomenon approximately 18km northeast of Phrae off Rte 101. Erosion has created bizarre pillars of soil and rock that look like giant fungi. The area has been made a provincial park; a few walking trails and viewpoints are recent additions. There are picnic pavilions in the park and food vendors selling gài yâhng (grilled, spiced chicken), sôm·am and sticky rice near the entrance.
Getting to Phae Meuang Phi by public transport is complicated; talk to Khun Kung at Nok Bin ( Click here) for details.
NAN PROVINCE
Tucked into Thailand’s northeastern corner, Nan is a remote province to be explored for its natural beauty. Nan’s unique ethnic groups are another highlight and differ significantly from those in other northern provinces. Outside the Mae Nam Nan valley, the predominant hill tribes are Mien, with smaller numbers of Hmong, and dispersed throughout Nan are four lesser-known groups seldom seen outside this province: the Thai Lü, Mrabri, Htin and Khamu.
It’s now also possible for foreign travellers holding a Lao visa to cross into Laos at the village of Ban Huay Kon, 140km north of Nan. For details Click here.
Return to beginning of chapter
NAN
pop 20,413
Due to its remote location, Nan is not the kind of destination most travellers are going to stumble upon. And its largely featureless downtown isn’t going to inspire many postcards home. But if you’ve taken the time to get here, you’ll be rewarded by a city rich in both culture and history. Many of Nan’s residents are Thai Lü, the ancestors of immigrants from Xishuangbanna, in southern China. This cultural legacy is seen in the city’s art and architecture, particularly in its exquisite temples. A Lanna influence on the town can also be seen in the remains of the old city