Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [318]
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History
For centuries Nan was an isolated, independent kingdom with few ties to the outside world. Ample evidence of prehistoric habitation exists, but it wasn’t until several small meuang consolidated to form Nanthaburi in the mid-14th century that the city became a power to contend with. Towards the end of the 14th century Nan became one of the nine northern Thai-Lao principalities that comprised Lan Na Thai. The city-state flourished throughout the 15th century under the name Chiang Klang (Middle City), a reference to its position approximately midway between Chiang Mai (New City) and Chiang Thong (Golden City, which is today’s Luang Prabang). The Burmese took control of the kingdom in 1558 and transferred many of the inhabitants to Burma as slaves; the city was all but abandoned until western Thailand was wrested from the Burmese in 1786. The local dynasty then regained local sovereignty and it remained semi-autonomous until 1931, when Nan finally (and reluctantly) accepted full Bangkok sponsorship.
Information
Bangkok Bank (Th Sumonthewarat) Near the Nan Fah and Dhevaraj hotels. Operates foreign-exchange services and has ATMs.
CAT office (Main post office, Th Mahawong; 7am-10pm) Has a Home Country Direct Phone.
Kan Internet (Th Mahayot; per hr 15B; 9am-10pm) Other places offering internet services are available around town for about 20B per hour.
Kasikornbank (Th Sumonthewarat) Near Bangkok Bank and offering the same services.
Main post office (Th Mahawong; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays) In the centre of town.
Siam Commercial Bank (Th Anantaworarittidet) ATM and foreign-exchange service.
Tourist Information centre (0 5471 0216; Th Pha Kong; 8am-5pm) New centre, complete with coffee shop. Opposite Wat Phumin. Fhu Travel is also a good source of information ( Click here).
Sights
WAT PHUMIN
Nan’s most famous temple is celebrated for its exquisite murals that were executed during the late 19th century by a Thai Lü artist called Thit Buaphan. For an insight into the historical significance of the murals, see boxed text, Click here.
The exterior of the temple takes the form of a cruciform bòht that was constructed in 1596 and restored during the reign of Chao Anantavorapitthidet (1867–74). The bòht exemplifies the work of Thai Lü architects, and the ornate altar sitting in the centre of the bòht has four sides, with four Sukhothai-style sitting Buddhas in mahn wí·chai (‘victory over Mara’ – with one hand touching the ground) posture, facing in each direction.
NAN NATIONAL MUSEUM
Housed in the 1903-vintage palace of Nan’s last two feudal lords, this museum (0 5477 2777; Th Pha Kong; admission 100B; 9am-4pm) first opened its doors in 1973. In terms of collection and content, it’s one of the country’s better provincial museums, and has English labels for most items.
The ground floor has ethnological exhibits covering the various ethnic groups found in the province. Among the items on display are silverwork, textiles, folk utensils and tribal costumes. On the 2nd floor are exhibits on Nan history, archaeology, local architecture, royal regalia, weapons, ceramics and religious art. Of the latter, the museum’s collection of Buddha images includes some rare Lanna styles as well as the floppy-eared local styles. Also on display on the 2nd floor is a rare ‘black’ elephant tusk said to have been presented to a Nan lord over 300 years ago by the Khün ruler of Chiang Tung (Kengtung).
WAT PHRA THAT CHAE HAENG
Two kilometres past the bridge that spans Mae Nam Nan, heading southeast out of town, this temple dating from 1355 is the most sacred wát in Nan Province. It’s set in a square, walled enclosure on top of a hill with a view of Nan and the valley. The Thai Lü–influenced bòht features a triple-tiered roof with carved wooden eaves and dragon reliefs over the doors. A gilded Lanna-style chedi sits on a large square base next to the bòht; visit late in the day and the structure practically glows in the afternoon light.
WAT PHRA