Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [320]
The murals commissioned by Jao Suliyaphong, the last king of Nan, include the Khaddhana Jataka, a relatively obscure story of one of the Buddha’s lives that, according to Thai historian David K Wyatt in his excellent book, Reading Thai Murals, has never been illustrated elsewhere in the Buddhist world. The story, which is on the left side of the temple’s northern wall, depicts an orphan in search of his parents. Wyatt argues that this particular tale was chosen as a metaphor for the kingdom of Nan, which also had been abandoned by a succession of ‘parents’, the Thai kingdoms of Sukhothai, Chiang Mai and Ayuthaya. At roughly the same time as the murals were painted, Nan was fully incorporated into Siam by King Rama V, and much of its territory was allotted to France. Apparent discontent with this decision can be seen in a scene on the west wall that shows two male monkeys attempting to copulate against a background that, not coincidentally according to Wyatt, resembles the French flag.
The murals are also valuable purely for their artistic beauty, something that is even more remarkable if one steps back and considers the limited palette of colours that the artist, Thit Buaphan, had to work with. The paintings are also fascinating for their fly-on-the-wall depictions of local life in Nan during the end of the 19th century. A depiction of three members of a hill tribe on the west wall includes such details as a man’s immense goitre and a barking dog, suggesting this group’s place as outsiders. Multiple depictions of a man wearing a feminine shawl, often seen performing traditionally female-only duties, are among the earliest depictions of a gà·teu·i (transsexual). And in what must be one of the art world’s most superfluous cameos, the artist painted himself on the west wall, flirting with a woman. Considering that the murals took Thit Buaphan more than 20 years to complete, we’ll allow him this excess.
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Sleeping
Amazing Guest House (0 5471 0893; 23/7 Th Rat Amnuay; s/d 120/350B;) This intimate place is a bit like staying with your long-lost Thai grandparents. All rooms have wooden floors, clean beds and shared hot-water showers. Rooms in concrete rooms out the back have en-suite bathrooms. Bicycles and motorbikes can be rented here, and free pick-up from the bus station is available.
Numchock Guest House (08 1998 1855; 37 Th Rat Amnuay; r with fan/air-con 200/300B; ) Also on Th Rat Amnuay, across from Amazing Guest House, another local family has turned part of its tidy residential compound into an inviting guesthouse. Rooms are well equipped, but a long walk from the centre of town.
Nan Guest House (0 5477 1849; 57/16 Th Mahaphrom; r 170-250B; ) In a quiet residential area a short walk from most of Nan’s famous temples, this well-maintained place has spotless spacious rooms, most with en-suite hot-water bathrooms. The Australian owner also organises tours, has an international call service and rents out mountain bikes.
Grand Mansion Hotel (no roman-script sign; 0 5475 0514; 71/1 Th Mahayot; r 230-500B; ) This long two-storey building holds 71 rooms around an interior courtyard. They’re largely featureless, but include ample amenities, and some have balconies. There’s no English sign, so look for the tall wooden gateway on Th Mahayot after Wat Suan Tan; the hotel is about 100m off the road.
SP Guest House (0 5477 4897; Soi Tok Huawiang Tai; r with fan/air-con 300/400B; ) This small guesthouse boasts a homey feel. There are six large, well-equipped bedrooms and bathrooms, with wooden or tiled floors. All come with hot water and cable TV, and a choice of fan or air-con. Eight new rooms were being built at the time of writing.
Phu Fha Place (0 5471 0222; 237/8 Th Sumonthewarat; r 350B; ) This brand new family-run hotel is by far the best deal in town, if not in this part of northern Thailand. The huge rooms have been decorated with attractive teak furniture, including the kind of puffy inviting beds you’d normally find at places that charge