Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [321]
Nan Fah Hotel (0 5471 0284; fax 0 5475 1087; 438-440 Th Sumonthewarat; s/d/tr 350/600/700B; ) This 80-year-old all-wooden hotel feels like a rooming house, with neat, large rooms. They all come with cable TV, fridge and hot-water showers. There’s a good restaurant attached, and bicycles, motorbikes and pick-ups can be rented here.
Srinuan Lodge (no roman-script sign; 0 5471 0174; 40 Th Norkham; r/ste 400/300B; ) This two-storey brick structure holds 25 rooms decked out in faux rustique–style with logs, bamboo and local textiles. Despite the design theme, the rooms look comfortable, and are about as close as you’ll get to sleeping near the Mae Nam Nan.
Dhevaraj Hotel (0 5471 0078; 466 Th Sumonthewarat; r incl breakfast 600-1200B, ste incl breakfast 3500B; ) From the outside, this hotel looks like a featureless box, but a peek inside reveals clean, modern rooms with all the amenities you’d expect at this price. Paradoxically, the cheaper rooms appear a bit nicer, with lots of natural light and attractive wicker furniture.
Eating & Drinking
Despite its other charms, Nan has one of the least inspiring dining scenes in northern Thailand.
Yota Vegetarian Restaurant (Th Mahawong; dishes 10-35B; 7am-3pm) Run by the friendliest lady in town who will not let you leave hungry, this is perhaps the best deal in Nan. It’s popular and once the food is gone after lunch, that’s it for the day.
Kamlang Dee (no roman-script sign; Th Sumonthewarat; dishes 15-30B; 11am-7.30pm) This tiny, colourful restaurant is known for its sôm·am tôrt, deep-fried sôm·am. It’s an equal parts crunchy and refreshing snack. They also do great fruit smoothies and other basic dishes.
Hot Bread (08 9635 9375; 38/1-2 Th Suriyaphong; dishes 20-80B; 7am-8pm) This cheery, foreigner-friendly restaurant does breakfasts and coffee, as well as a lengthy menu with heaps of veggie options. The attached noodle shop sells kâo soy and other noodle dishes until 5pm.
Pu Som Restaurant (no roman-script sign; 08 1675 3795; 203/1 Th Mano; dishes 30-70B; 11am-midnight) Like a misplaced Texas barnhouse, this popular local restaurant is decked out in cowboy hats, cow skulls, gun holsters, and a plethora of images of the Marlboro Man. Fittingly, the emphasis here is on beef, served in the local style as lâhp, or as néu·a nêung, steamed over herbs and served with an incredibly delicious galangal dip. The menu here is only in Thai, but the enthusiastic staff will do all they can to help.
Tanaya Kitchen (0 5471 0930; 75/23-24 Th Anantaworarittidet; dishes 30-80B; 7am-9.30pm) Neat and tidy, with a creative selection of dishes made without MSG, and a variety of vegetarian (and nonvegetarian) options, Tanaya is a good choice for any diet. It caters to a mostly tourist clientele.
Suan Isan (0 5477 2913; Th Sumonthewarat; dishes 30-90B; 11am-11pm) For Isan food, this semi-outdoor spot is 200m up the lane off Th Sumonthewarat past the Bangkok Bank.
Muanjai Coffee (08 9636 3970; 19/3 Th Jao Fa; dishes 35-45B; 7am-7.30pm) With its modern decor and militant self-service policy, this cafe is the Starbucks of Nan. They do good coffee, and even have a fireplace for those cold northern winters.
Goodview Nan (08 1675 3795; 203/1 Th Mano; dishes 35-150B; 11am-midnight) One of the few places in town to take advantage of the views over the Mae Nam Nan, this place works equally well as a dinner date or a riverside pub. There’s an English-language menu and at night, a live music soundtrack.
Dhevee Coffee Shop (0 5471 0094; Dhevaraj Hotel, 466 Th Sumonthewarat; dishes 40-140B; 6am-2am) Modest, clean and reliable, Dhevaraj Hotel’s restaurant does good buffets (lunch buffet 69B), has a huge menu and is open when many other places are closed.
Da Dario (08 7184 5436; Th Mahayot; dishes 40-160B; 9am-5pm) This Italian restaurant makes great breakfasts, delicious pizza and pasta, as well as other Western treats