Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [325]
The image was cast in the late Sukhothai style, but what makes it strikingly unique is the flamelike halo around the head and torso that turns up at the bottom to become dragon-serpent heads on either side of the image. The head of this Buddha is a little wider than standard Sukhothai, giving the statue a very solid feel.
Another sanctuary to one side has been converted into a free museum (9am-5.30pm Wed-Sun), displaying antique Buddha images, ceramics and other historic artefacts.
Despite the holiness of the temple, endless loud broadcasts asking for donations, Thai musicians, a strip of vendors hawking everything from herbs to lottery tickets, several ATM machines, and hundreds of visitors all contribute to a relentlessly hectic atmosphere. Come early (ideally before 7am) if you’re looking for quiet contemplation or simply wish to take photos, and regardless of the time be sure to dress appropriately – no shorts or sleeveless tops.
Near Wat Yai, on the same side of the river, is another temple of the same period – Wat Nang Phaya.
FOLK MUSEUM, BUDDHA-CASTING FOUNDRY & BIRD GARDEN
A nationally acclaimed expert on Thai folkways, a former military cartographer and Buddha statue caster, and apparent bird aficionado, Sergeant Major Thawee Buranakhet has taken from his diverse experiences and interests to create three very worthwhile attractions in Phitsanulok.
The Sergeant Major Thawee Folk Museum (26/43 Th Wisut Kasat; child/adult 20/50B; 8.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) displays a remarkable collection of tools, textiles and photographs from Phitsanulok Province. This fascinating museum is spread throughout five traditional-style Thai buildings with well-groomed gardens, and the displays are all accompanied by informative and legible English descriptions. Those interested in cooking will find much of interest in the display of a traditional Thai kitchen and the various traps used to catch game. Male visitors will be undoubtedly disturbed by a display that describes traditional bull castration –a process that apparently involves no sharp tools. To get here take bus 8.
Across the street and also belonging to Dr Thawee is a small Buddha Casting Foundry (8am-5pm) where bronze Buddha images of all sizes are cast. Visitors are welcome to watch and there are even detailed photo exhibits demonstrating the lost-wax method of metal casting. Some of the larger images take a year or more to complete. There is a small gift shop at the foundry where you can purchase bronze images of various sizes.
In addition to the bronze foundry, there is also a display of fighting cocks, which are bred and sold all over the country. (The official English name for this part of the facility is ‘The Centre of Conservative Folk Cock’.)
Attached to the foundry is Dr Thawee’s latest project, Garden Birds of Thailand (0 5521 2540; child/adult 20/50B; 8.30am-5pm). This collection of aviaries contains indigenous Thai birds including some endangered species, like the very pretty pink-chested jamu fruit-dove, and the prehistoric-looking helmeted hornbill. Unfortunately, the cages are generally rather small and don’t reflect the birds’ natural environments.
WAT RATBURANA
Across the street from Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, this temple draws fewer visitors but in some ways is more interesting than its famous neighbour. In addition to a wí·hhn with a 700-year-old gold Buddha, an ùbohsòt chapel with beautiful murals thought to date back to the mid-19th century, and two hr rai (elevated structures used to store Buddhist texts), the temple is also home to a few quirky attractions