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By Root 4740 0

that offer a fascinating insight into the practices of Thai Buddhism. The most obvious of these is a large wooden boat decked with garlands that originally served to transport King Rama V on an official visit to Phitsanulok. Today the boat is thought to grant wishes to those who make an offering and crawl under its entire length three or nine times. Next to the wí·hhn is a sacred tree with ladders on either side that visitors climb up, leave an offering, then ring a bell and descend, again repeating the action a total of three or nine times. And directly adjacent to the tree is an immense gong that, when rubbed the right way, creates a unique ringing sound. Near each of these attractions you’ll find somebody stationed who, in addition to selling the coins, incense and flowers used in offerings, will also instruct visitors in exactly how to conduct each particular ritual, including how many times to pass, what to offer, and what prayer to say.

WAT CHULAMANI

Five kilometres south of the city (bus 5 down Th Borom Trailokanat, 5B), Wat Chulamani harbours some ruins dating from the Sukhothai period. The original buildings must have been impressive, judging from what remains of the ornate Khmer-style tower. King Borom Trailokanat was ordained as a monk here and there is an old Thai inscription to that effect on the ruined wí·hhn, dating from the reign of King Narai the Great.

The tower has little left of its original height, but Khmer-style lintels remain, including one with a Sukhothai walking Buddha and a dhammacakka (Buddhist wheel of law) in the background.

Activities

MASSAGE

Relaxation takes an entirely new form at Phae Hatha Thai Massage (0 5524 3389; Th Wangchan; massage per hr with fan/AC 120/150B; 9am-10pm), a Thai massage centre housed on a floating raft.

Sleeping

BUDGET

Phitsanulok Youth Hostel (0 5524 2060; www.tyha.org; 38 Th Sanam Bin; d 120, r 200-400B; ) There’s no clear sign to identify this place; simply look for the large ‘38’ out front. At the rear of the leafy compound you’ll find several rooms decked out in aged teak. The rooms have their own rustic charm, but the entire compound could use a bit of TLC.

Lithai Guest House (0 5521 9626; 73 Th Phayalithai; r 220-460B; ) This place is so clean it gleams. The light-filled 60 or so rooms don’t have much character but they are excellent value. Most have large en-suite bathrooms with hot water, cable TV, plentiful furniture and a fridge. Rates include breakfast and free bottled water. There is an air ticket agent, coffee shop and restaurant on site.

Kraisaeng Place (0 5521 0509; 45 Th Thammabucha; r 350-450B;) Appearing more like a small apartment building than a hotel, the well-equipped rooms here are a good bargain. Be sure to look at the double rooms, which for only a bit more are gigantic and feature an additional seating area. Be prepared for a fair bit of traffic noise.

Casa Holiday (0 5530 4340; www.mycasaholiday.com; 305/2 Th Phichaisongkhram; r 380-650B; ) Located 2km outside the centre of town, if you’ve got your own wheels this character-laden place is a no-brainer. Several of the 42 bright and airy rooms in the ranch-style complex feature fun design extras such as outdoor showers or ‘Japanese beds’ (futons). The top floor boasts a wide balcony with communal tables and chairs, there’s a restaurant downstairs, and internet-equipped computers abound.

Rattana View Hotel (0 5522 1999; 847 Th Mitraphap; r 450-790B; ) A block east of the main bus station, this brand-new hotel is an attractive choice. The handsome rooms exude a crisp, clean feel, and all include wide balconies. There’s a restaurant on the ground floor and a spa is located in the Amway Building directly in front of the hotel.

Princess Green Hotel (0 5530 4988; www.princessgreen.com; 8 Th Phra Ong Dam; r 490B; ) This 28-room hotel has spacious, tidy rooms that are well furnished and have cable TV and minibar. The only downside here is the hotel’s proximity to the town mosque, making early morning wake-up calls a potential issue for some.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

Golden Grand Hotel