Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [327]
Pailyn Hotel (0 5525 2411; 38 Th Borom Trailokanat; s/d/ste incl breakfast 900/1000/3500B; ) The conveniently located, 13-storey Pailyn has an enormous lobby with an unfortunate looking catfish squashed in a tank. The rooms are spacious, have cable TV and minibar, and are well decorated apart from very loud batik panels above the beds. Some have great river views. There are restaurants and lounges downstairs, and the staff members are professional and helpful.
Grand Riverside Hotel (0 5524 8333; www.tgrhotel.com; 59 Th Phra Ruang; r 1500-1800B, ste 3000B; ) Overlooking the Mae Nam Nan from its west bank, this towering hotel offers all the amenities you’d expect in a relatively new, top-end hotel. Deluxe rooms offer an additional sitting area and river views. There’s a restaurant and spa, and by the time you read this, a pool and fitness centre as well.
Yodia Heritage Hotel (08 1613 8496; www.yodiaheritage.com; Th Phuttha Bucha; r 3750-6000B, ste 15,000B; ) Although still under construction at the time of research, when finished this boutique hotel will undoubtedly take the crown as Phitsanulok’s most upscale accommodation. Located near a quiet stretch of the Mae Nam Nan, but still conveniently close to the centre, the 21 rooms here will follow several different design themes, all luxurious.
Eating
Phitsanulok takes its cuisine seriously. The city is particularly obsessive about night markets, and there are no fewer than three dotted in various locations around town. The most well known, Phitsanulok’s Night Bazaar (dishes 40-80B; 5pm-3am), focuses mainly on clothing, but a few riverfront restaurants specialise in pàk bûng loy fáh (literally ‘floating-in-the-sky morning glory vine’), where the cook fires up a batch of pàk bûng in the wok and then flings it through the air to a waiting server who catches it on a plate. If you’re lucky, you’ll be here when a tour group is trying to catch the flying vegetables, but is actually dropping pàk bûng all over the place. Another night market (dishes 20-40B; 5pm-midnight) lines either side of Th Phra Ong Dam north of Th U Thong. A famous vendor here sells a variety of deep-fried insects.
Another dish associated with Phitsanulok is goay·e·o hôy kh (literally, ‘legs-hanging’ noodles). The name comes from the way customers sit on the floor facing the river, with their legs dangling below. Rim Nan (08 1379 3172; 5/4 Th Phaya Sua; dishes 20-35B; 9am-4pm), north of Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat, is one of a few similar restaurants along Th Phutta Bucha that offer noodles and ‘alternative’ seating. The restaurant has an English menu with photos; try the bà·mèe nám, yellow egg and wheat noodles with pork broth.
Fah-Kerah (786 Th Phra Ong Dam; dishes 5-20B; 6am-2pm) There are several Thai-Muslim cafes near the mosque on Th Phra Ong Dam, and this is a popular one. Thick roh·ee is served up with gaang mát·sà·màn (Muslim curry), fresh yogurt is made daily and the roh·ee gaang (roh·ee served with a small bowl of curry) is a steal at 20B.
Jaroen Tham (Vegetarian Food; Th Sithamatraipidok; dishes 15-20B; 8am-3pm) Around the corner from the TAT office, this simple place serves a choice of vegetarian dishes paired with husky brown rice. Look for a sign saying ‘Vegetarian Food’.
Rin Coffee (0 5525 2848; 20 Th Salreuthai; dishes 20-85B; 7.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-9pm Sat & Sun) This light-filled, glass-fronted cafe is popular with young Thais. Whole menu pages are dedicated to various green tea, coffee and chocolate drink concoctions. Sit in the brightly coloured seats or perch at the bar and sample the ice cream, hearty breakfasts, waffles, sandwiches or salads.
Karaket (0 5525 8193; Th Phayalithai; dishes 25-40B; 1-8pm) Opposite Lithai