Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [328]
Daeng (0 5522 5127; Th Borom Trailokanat; dishes 40-120B; lunch & dinner) Across from Pailyn Hotel, this small shop is part of a popular chain of Thai/Vietnamese food that originated in Nong Khai. Be sure to order the restaurant’s signature dish, nam neu·ang, grilled pork balls served with fresh herbs and rice paper sheets to wrap it all up in.
Ban Mai (08 6925 5018; 93/30 Th U Thong; dishes 70-140B; 11am-2pm & 5-10pm) Dinner at this local favourite is like a meal at your grandparents’; opinionated conversation resounds, frumpy furniture abounds, and an overfed Siamese cat appears to rule the dining room. Don’t expect home cooking though; Ban Mai specialises in unusual, but perfectly executed dishes that aren’t easily found elsewhere, like the gaang pèt èt yâhng, a curry of smoked duck, or yam à·krái, lemon grass ‘salad’.
For snacks and self-catering, there’s a huge supermarket in the basement of the Topland Shopping Plaza, and a very busy night market (dishes 20-60B; 4-8pm) just south of the train station that features mostly take-away items. One particularly popular dish is kôw ne·o hòr, tiny banana-leaf parcels of sticky rice with various toppings; there are two vendors opposite each other near the Th Ekathotsarot entrance to the market.
Drinking & Entertainment
A few floating pubs can be found along the strip of Th Wangchan directly in front of the Grand Riverside Hotel including Sabai Boat (Th Wangchan; dishes 40-140B; 11am-11pm) and Wow! (Th Wangchan; dishes 50-150B; 5pm-midnight), both proffering food as well as drink. Calito (08 1953 2629; 84/1 Th Wangchan; dishes 70-100B; 6pm-midnight), located on firm ground, has an extensive menu of Thai eats and cold draught beer.
Wood Stock (08 1785 1958; 148/22-23 Th Wisut Kasat; dishes 35-70B; 5pm-midnight) combines funky ’60s and ’70s-era furniture, live music, and a brief and cheap menu of gàp glâam (Thai-style nibbles). Staff are very friendly, and although English is limited, they’ll do their best.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Phitsanulok’s airport (0 5530 1002) is 5km south of town.
THAI (0 5524 2971-2; 209/26-28 Th Borom Trailokanat) operates flights between Phitsanulok and Bangkok (3185B, 55 minutes, twice daily). Tickets can also be booked at the travel agent attached to Lithai Guest House ( Click here).
Golden House Tour (0 5525 9973; 55/37 Th Borom Trailokanat) has a board at the airport indicating its mini-van service from the airport to hotels (150B per person). Túk-túk go to the airport from town for 150B.
BUS
Transport options out of Phitsanulok are good, as it’s a junction for bus routes both north and northeast. Phitsanulok’s bus station is 2km east of town on Hwy 12.
There are buses directly to Sukhothai (ordinary 45B, one hour, every half-hour from 7am to 5pm), or you can hop on any bus bound for Chiang Rai (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 286/367/428B, five hours). There are frequent buses to Lampang (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 176/227/265B, four hours), Nan (2nd class air-con/1st class 197/254B, two hours) and Phrae (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 130/167/195B, three hours). Buses to Kamphaeng Phet (2nd class air-con/1st class 60/81B, three hours) and Chiang Mai (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 241/310/361B, six hours) depart every hour during the day. There are also buses to Tak (2nd class air-con 101B, three hours) and several minivans bound for Mae Sot (176B, four hours).
To Isan, there are buses to Nakhon Ratchasima (2nd class air-con/1st class/VIP 280/360/420B, six hours) and Khon Kaen (2nd class air-con/1st class 231/297B, seven hours).
There’s no lack of buses to Bangkok (2nd class/1st class air-con/VIP 246/317/490B, six hours, every hour from 8am to 11.30pm), with VIP buses departing at 10pm.
TRAIN
Phitsanulok’s train station is within walking distance of ample accommodation and offers a left-luggage service. The