Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [331]
If you have your own wheels, you can turn south at the Km100 marker onto Rte 2196 and head for Khao Kho (Khow Khor), another mountain lair used by the CPT during the 1970s. About 1.5km from the summit of Khao Kho, you must turn onto the very steep Rte 2323. At the summit, 30km from the highway, stands a tall obelisk erected in memory of the Thai soldiers killed during the suppression of the communist insurgency. Gun emplacements and sandbagged lookout posts perched on the summit have been left intact as historical reminders. On a clear day, the 360-degree view from the summit is wonderful.
If you’ve made the side trip to Khao Kho you can choose either to return to the Phitsanulok–Lom Sak highway, or take Rte 2258, off Rte 2196, until it terminates at Rte 203. On Rte 203 you can continue north to Lom Sak or south to Phetchabun. On Rte 2258, about 4km from Rte 2196, you’ll pass Khao Kho Palace. One of the smaller royal palaces in Thailand, it’s a fairly uninteresting, modern set of structures but has quite a nice rose garden. If you’ve come all the way to Khao Kho you may as well take a look.
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Sleeping & Eating
Thung Salaeng Luang National Park (0 2562 0760; www.dnp.go.th; tent site 30B, 2-8 person tent 150-600B, bungalows 1000-5000B) In the park there are 15 well-equipped wooden bungalows that accommodate four to 10 people. Bungalows are available near the headquarters by the Km80 entrance or in two other park zones. It’s also possible to pitch a tent. There’s a restaurant and food vendors in the park.
Rainforest Resort (0 5529 3085-6; www.rainforestthailand.com; Km42; 2-6 person cottages 1600-4500B; ) There are several resorts just off Hwy 12 and this is by far the best of the lot. Consisting of a jungled hillside of delightful cottages alongside Mae Nam Khek, the resort also includes an indoor-outdoor restaurant with an interesting Thai food menu.
Another good choice is Wang Thara Health Resort & Spa (0 5529 3411-4; www.wanathara.com; Km46, Hwy 12; r 1600-3800B; ), a slightly aged but still attractive resort with the added bonus of a reasonably priced spa. Budget accommodation can be found near Kaeng Song, around Km45, including Ban Kiang Num (0 5529 3441; www.bankiangnum.9nha.com; Km45, Hwy 12; r 600-1000B), which offers large but basic rooms with vast balconies overlooking Song Rapids.
Several restaurants are located on the banks of the Nam Khek, most taking full advantage of the views and breezes. Ran Rim Kaeng (0 5529 3370; Km45, Hwy 12; dishes 70-120B; 11am-10pm) is known for its spicy dishes and is popular with locals. Look for the yellow building at Km45 near Kaeng Song. A few clicks up the road at Km42, Ran Thin Thai Lan Lanthom (08 3219 2822; Km42, Hwy 12; dishes 30-90B; 7am-7pm) serves up excellent coffee, yummy homemade cookies and custard apple ice cream, not to mention an acclaimed menu of Thai dishes. Look for the sign advertising ‘Doi Tung’ coffee.
Getting There & Away
For more freedom it’s best to do this route with your own wheels. Buses between Phitsanulok and Lom Sak cost 50B for ordinary and 70B for air-con, each way. During daylight hours it’s possible to flag down another bus to continue your journey, but after 4pm it gets a little chancy.
SUKHOTHAI PROVINCE
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SUKHOTHAI
pop 17,510
The Sukhothai (Rising of Happiness) Kingdom flourished from the mid-13th century to the late 14th century. This period is often viewed as the ‘golden age’ of Thai civilisation – the religious art and architecture of the era are considered to be the most classic of Thai styles. The remains of the kingdom, today known as the meuang gòw (old city), feature around 45 sq km of partially rebuilt ruins, which are one of the most visited ancient sites in Thailand.
Located 12km east of the historical park on the Mae Nam Yom, the market town of New Sukhothai is not particularly interesting. Yet its friendly and relaxed atmosphere, good transport links and attractive accommodation make