Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [332]
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History
Sukhothai is typically regarded as the first capital of Siam, although this is not entirely accurate (see boxed text, Click here). The area was previously the site of a Khmer empire until 1238, when two Thai rulers, Pho Khun Pha Muang and Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao, decided to unite and form a new Thai kingdom.
Sukhothai’s dynasty lasted 200 years and spanned nine kings. The most famous was King Ramkhamhaeng, who reigned from 1275 to 1317 and is credited with developing the first Thai script – his inscriptions are also considered the first Thai literature. Ramkhamhaeng eventually expanded his kingdom to include an area even larger than that of present-day Thailand. But a few kings later in 1438, Sukhothai was absorbed by Ayuthaya. See Sukhothai Historical Park for more information ( Click here).
Information
There are banks with ATMs scattered all around the central part of New Sukhothai, and now a few in Old Sukhothai as well. Internet is easy to find in New Sukhothai, and is available at many guesthouses. Sukhothai’s best sources of tourist information are the guesthouses, especially Ban Thai ( Click here).
CAT office ( Map; Th Nikhon Kasem; 7am-10pm) Attached to the post office and offers international phone services.
Police station ( Map; 0 5561 1010) In New Sukhothai.
Post office ( MapTh Nikhon Kasem; 8.30am-noon Mon-Fri, 1-4.30pm Sat & Sun, 9am-noon holidays)
Sukhothai Hospital ( Map; 0 5561 0280; Th Jarot Withithong)
Tourist police ( Map; Sukhothai Historical Park) Call 1155 for emergencies or go to the tourist police station opposite the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum.
Sights
SUKHOTHAI HISTORICAL PARK
The Sukhothai ruins ( Map; admission 100-350B, plus per bicycle/motorcycle/car 10/20/50B; 6am-6pm) are one of Thailand’s most impressive World Heritage Sites. The park includes remains of 21 historical sites and four large ponds within the old walls, with an additional 70 sites within a 5km radius.
The ruins are divided into five zones – central, north, south, east and west – each of which has a 100B admission fee. For 350B you can buy a single ticket that allows entry to all the Sukhothai sites, plus Sawanworanayok Museum ( Click here), Ramkhamhaeng National Museum (opposite) and the Si Satchanalai and Chaliang ( Click here). The ticket is good for 30 days, but in theory only allows a single visit to each site.
The architecture of Sukhothai temples is most typified by the classic lotus-bud chedi, featuring a conical spire topping a square-sided structure on a three-tiered base. Some sites exhibit other rich architectural forms introduced and modified during the period, such as bell-shaped Sinhalese and double-tiered Srivijaya chedi.
Despite the popularity of the park, it’s quite expansive, and solitary exploration is usually possible. Some of the most impressive ruins are outside the city walls, so a bicycle or motorcycle is essential to fully appreciate everything. Click here for details on the best way to tour the park.
Ramkhamhaeng National Museum
A good starting point for exploring the historical park ruins is Ramkhamhaeng National Museum ( Map; 0 5561 2167; admission 150B; 9am-4pm). A replica of the famous Ramkhamhaeng inscription, said to be the earliest example of Thai writing, is kept here among an impressive collection of the Sukhothai artefacts.
Wat Mahathat
Completed in the 13th century, the largest wát in Sukhothai is surrounded by brick walls (206m long and 200m wide) and a moat that is believed to represent the outer wall of the universe and the cosmic ocean. The chedi spires feature the famous lotus-bud motif, and some of the original stately Buddha figures still sit among the ruined columns of the old wí·hhn. There are 198 chedi within the monastery walls – a lot to explore in what many consider was once thespiritual and administrative centre of the old capital.
Wat Si Chum
This wát is northwest of the old city and contains an impressive mon·dòp with a 15m, brick-and-stucco seated