Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [333]
Wat Saphan Hin
Four kilometres to the west of the old city walls in the west zone, Wat Saphan Hin is on the crest of a hill that rises about 200m above the plain. The name of the wát, which means ‘stone bridge’, is a reference to the slate path and staircase that leads up to the temple, which are still in place. The site gives a good view of the Sukhothai ruins to the southeast and the mountains to the north and south.
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THE FIRST?
The establishment of Sukhothai in 1238 is often described as the formation of the first Thai kingdom. But the kingdom of Chiang Saen ( Click here) had already been established 500 years earlier, and at the time of Sukhothai’s founding, other Thai kingdoms such as Lanna, Phayao and Chiang Saen also existed. Sukhothai’s profound influence on the art, language, literature and religion of modern Thai society, not to mention the immense size of the kingdom at its peak in the early 13th century, are doubtlessly reasons for the proliferation of this convenient, but technically incorrect, historical fact.
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All that remains of the original temple are a few chedi and the ruined wí·hhn, consisting of two rows of laterite columns flanking a 12.5m-high standing Buddha image on a brick terrace.
Wat Si Sawai
Just south of Wat Mahathat, this shrine (dating from the 12th and 13th centuries) features three Khmer-style towers and a picturesque moat. It was originally built by the Khmers as a Hindu temple.
Wat Sa Si
Also known as ‘Sacred Pond Monastery’, Wat Sa Si sits on an island west of the bronze monument of King Ramkhamhaeng (the third Sukhothai king). It’s a simple, classic Sukhothai-style wát containing a large Buddha, one chedi and the columns of the ruined wí·hhn.
Wat Trapang Thong
Next to the museum, this small, still-inhabited wát with its fine stucco reliefs is reached by a footbridge across the large lotus-filled pond that surrounds it. This reservoir, the original site of Thailand’s Loi Krathong festival (opposite), supplies the Sukhothai community with most of its water.
Wat Phra Phai Luang
Outside the city walls in the northern zone, this somewhat isolated wát features three 12th-century Khmer-style towers, bigger than those at Wat Si Sawai. This may have been the centre of Sukhothai when it was ruled by the Khmers of Angkor prior to the 13th century.
Wat Chang Lom
Off Hwy 12 in the east zone, Wat Chang Lom (Elephant Circled Monastery) is about 1km east of the main park entrance. A large bell-shaped chedi is supported by 36 elephants sculpted into its base.
Wat Chetupon
Located 2km south of the city walls, this temple once held a four-sided mon·dòp featuring the four classic poses of the Buddha (sitting, reclining, standing and walking). The graceful lines of the walking Buddha can still be made out today.
Wat Chedi Si Hong
Directly across from Wat Chetupon, the main chedi here has retained much of its original stucco relief work, which show still vivid depictions of elephants, lions and humans.
SANGKHALOK MUSEUM
This small but comprehensive museum (off Map; 0 5561 4333; 203/2 Mu 3 Th Muangkao; child/adult 50/100B; 8am-5pm) is an excellent introduction to ancient Sukhothai’s most famous product and export, its ceramics. It displays an impressive collection of original 700-year-old Thai pottery found in the area, plus some pieces traded from Vietnam, Burma and China. The 2nd floor features examples of non-utilitarian pottery made as art, including some beautiful and rare ceramic Buddha statues.
Activities
Belgian cycling enthusiast Ronny offers a variety of fun and educational bicycle tours ( Map; 0 5561 2519; www.geocities.com/cycling_sukhothai; half-/full day 550/650B, sunset tour 250B) of the