Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [339]
In Sawankhalok town, near Wat Sawankhalam on the western river bank, this state-sponsored museum (0 5564 1571; 69 Th Phracharat; admission 50B; 9am-4pm) houses an impressive collection of 12th- to 15th-century artefacts. The ground floor focuses on the area’s ceramic legacy, while the 2nd floor features several beautiful bronze and stone Sukhothai-era Buddha statues.
Ban Hat Siaw
pop 7299
This small town south of Si Satchanalai is a possible base from which to explore the ruins, and is home to the Thai Phuan (also known as Lao Phuan), a Tai tribal group that emigrated from Xieng Khuang Province in Laos about 100 years ago.
The local Thai Phuan are famous for hand-woven textiles, particularly the pâh sîn een jòk (brocade-bordered skirts), which have patterns of horizontal stripes bordered by thickly patterned brocade. The men’s pâh ká·máh (short sarong) from Hat Siaw, typically in dark plaids, are also highly regarded. Vintage Hat Siaw textiles, ranging from 80 to 200 years old, can be seen at the Ancient Textile Museum (0 5536 0058; admission free; 7am-6pm) opposite the market at the northern end of town.
Another Thai Phuan custom is the use of elephant-back processions in local monastic ordinations; these usually take place in early April.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s very little in terms of accommodation or food near the park. A better alternative is to be based out of nearby Sawankhalok or Ban Hat Siaw.
SI SATCHANALAI-CHALIANG HISTORICAL PARK
Papong Homestay (0 5563 1557, 08 7313 4782; r 500B; Chaliang; ) These three rooms in the large home of a friendly local are a minute’s walk from Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat at Chaliang. All rooms include en-suite bathrooms and are tidy and comfortable. The only thing lacking is food, which is best obtained near the entrance of the park, ideally before 6pm.
Si Satchanalai Hotel and Resort (0 5567 2666; 247 Moo 2, Rte 101; r 400B, bungalow 1200B; ) Resembling neither hotel nor resort, nonetheless this is virtually the only formal accommodation to be located relatively near the historical park. Rooms are featureless but tidy, and the expansive bungalows would be great for families. It’s approximately 6km north of the park on the west side of Rte 101.
BAN HAT SIAW
Although there’s only one place to stay here, there are several restaurants in this town, making it a logical base if you want to stay more or less near the historical park.
Hotel 59 (0 5567 1024; r 200-500B; ) With about as much character as the name suggests, this is definitely not somewhere you’re going to write home about, but it works if you want to stay relatively close to the historical park. It’s at the northern end of town, just down the turn-off to Utaradit.
Kulap (no roman-script sign; 0 5567 1151; 473 Moo 2, Rte 101; dishes 50-100B) Located at the far north end of town on the left-hand side, this tired-looking restaurant serves some truly excellent Thai food that has earned it a reputation among both visitors and locals. Spice addicts will love the gaang àh (‘jungle curry’), served with your choice of local fish, boar, frog or shrimp. For something more savoury try oo ln, a mild ‘dip’ of crab, minced pork, coconut milk and fresh herbs, served with fresh vegetables.
Sawankhalok
pop 18,840
This small town about 20km south of the historical park has some overnight options, including the Saengsin Hotel (0 5564 1259/1424; 2 Th Thetsaban Damri 3; s/d from 220/360B; ), about 1km south of the train station on the main street that runs through Sawankhalok. It has clean, comfortable rooms and a coffee shop. A couple of other options also line the main drag.
This isn’t a big town for eating; most food places sell noodles or curries and not much else. Sawankhalok’s night market assembles every evening along its main streets.
Getting There & Away
BUS
Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park is off Rte 101 between Sawankhalok and new Si Satchanalai. From New Sukhothai, take a Si Satchanalai bus (38B, two hours) and ask to get off at ‘meuang gòw’ (old city). Alternatively, catch the 9am