Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [340]
There are two places along the left side of the highway where you can get off the bus and reach the ruins in the park; both involve crossing Mae Nam Yom. The first, mentioned above, leads to a footbridge over Mae Nam Yom to Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat at Chaliang; the second crossing is about 2km further northwest just past two hills and leads directly into the Si Satchanalai ruins.
TRAIN
Sawankhalok’s original train station is one of the local sights. King Rama VI built a 60km railway spur from Ban Dara (a small town on the main northern trunk) to Sawankhalok just so that he could visit the ruins. Amazingly, there’s a daily special express from Bangkok to Sawankhalok (482B, seven hours, 10.50am). The train heads back to Bangkok at 7.40pm, arriving in the city at 3.30am. You can also take this train to Phitsanulok (50B). It’s a ‘Sprinter’ – 2nd class air-con and no sleepers. The fare includes dinner and breakfast.
Getting Around
You can rent bicycles (per day 20B) from a shop at the gateway to Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat as well as near the food stalls at the entrance to the historical park.
KAMPHAENG PHET PROVINCE
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KAMPHAENG PHET
pop 30,114
Located halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet literally means ‘Diamond Wall’, a reference to the apparent strength of this formerly walled city’s protective barrier. This level of security was necessary, as the city previously helped to protect the Sukhothai and later Ayuthaya kingdoms against attacks from Burma or Lanna. Parts of the wall can still be seen today, and the impressive ruins of several religious structures also remain. The modern city stretches along a shallow section of the Mae Nam Ping and is one of Thailand’s pleasanter provincial capitals.
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Information
Most of the major banks also have branches with ATMs along the main streets near the river and on Th Charoensuk. There are a couple of internet cafes in town on Th Thesa and Th Ratchadamnoen, otherwise try the main post office.
Main post office (Th Thesa) Just south of the old city. Has internet.
Police station (0 5571 1199, emergency 1155)
Tourist Information Centre (8am-4.30pm) Across from the National Museum; has some maps and pamphlets. There is another more history-focused centre at the group of ruins north of the city wall.
Sights
KAMPHAENG PHET HISTORICAL PARK
A Unesco World Heritage Site, this park (0 5571 1921; inclusive admission 100-150B, bicycle/motorbike/shm·lór/car 10/20/30/50B; 8am-5pm) features the ruins of structures dating back to the 14th century, roughly the same time as the better-known kingdom of Sukhothai. Kamphaeng Phet’s Buddhist monuments continued to be built until the Ayuthaya period, nearly 200 years later, and thus possess elements of both Sukhothai and Ayuthaya styles, resulting in a school of Buddhist art quite unlike anywhere else in Thailand.
The park is divided into two distinct parts; an inclusive ticket allows entry to both areas. The old city (admission 100B) is surrounded by a wall (the ‘Diamond Gate’ of the city’s name) and was formerly inhabited by monks of the gamavasi (‘living in the community’) sect. This area is dominated by Wat Phra Kaew, which used to be adjacent to the royal palace (now in ruins). It’s not nearly as well restored as Sukhothai, but it’s smaller, more intimate and less visited. Weather-corroded Buddha statues have assumed slender, porous forms that remind some visitors of the sculptures of Alberto Giacometti. About 100m southeast of Wat Phra Kaew is Wat Phra That, distinguished by a large round-based chedi surrounded by columns.
The majority of Kamphaeng Phet’s ruins are found a few hundred metres north of the city walls in an area previously home to monks of the arani (‘living in forests’) sect. An inclusive ticket purchased at the old city also allows entrance here, and there is an excellent visitor centre (admission 100B; 8.30am-4.30pm)