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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [355]

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elephant riding and rafting, as well as day tours.

Nature Walks (0 5361 1040, 08 9552 6899; www.trekkingthailand.com; natural_walks@yahoo.com) Although the treks here cost more than elsewhere, John, a native of Mae Hong Son, is the best guide in town. Treks here range from day long nature walks (1000B) to multiday journeys across the province (per person per day 2500B). John can also arrange custom nature-based tours, such as the orchid-viewing tours he conducts from March to May. John has no office; email and phone are the only ways to get in touch with him.

Rosegarden Tours (0 5361 1577; www.rosegarden-tours.com; 86/4 Th Khunlum Praphat; tour per person per day 1500B) English- and French-speaking guides focus on cultural tours.

Tour Merng Tai (0 5361 1979; www.maehongson4u.com; 89 Th Khunlum Praphat; tours per person per day 1450B) This outfit mostly does city-based van tours, but can also arrange treks.

MUD SPA

Pooklon Country Club (0 5328 2579; www.pooklon.com; Ban Mae Sanga; 8am-6.30pm) is touted as Thailand’s only mud treatment spa. Discovered by a team of geologists in 1995, the mud here is pasteurised and blended with herbs before being employed in various treatments (facial 100B). There’s thermal mineral water for soaking (60B), massage (per hour 200B), or cheapskates can soak their feet for free out front. The attached ‘country club’ includes a driving range and accommodation.

Pooklon is 16km north of Mae Hong Son in Mok Champae district. If you haven’t got your own wheels, you can take the daily Mae Aw–bound srng·ta·ou ( Click here), but this means you might have to find your own way back.

Festivals & Events

Poi Sang Long Festival (March) Wat Jong Klang and Wat Jong Kham are the focal point of this festival, where young Shan boys are ordained as novice monks in the ceremony known as boòat lôok gâaou. As part of the Shan custom, the boys are dressed in ornate costumes (rather than simple white robes) and wear flower headdresses and facial make-up.

Jong Para Festival (October) Another important local event, it is held towards the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat – three days before the full moon of the 11th lunar month, so it varies from year to year. The festival begins with local Shan bringing offerings to monks in the temples in a procession marked by the carrying of models of castles on poles. An important part of the festival is the folk theatre and dance, which is performed on the wát grounds, some of it unique to northwest Thailand.

Loi Krathong (November) During this national holiday – usually celebrated by floating grà·tong (small lotus floats) on the nearest pond, lake or river – Mae Hong Son residents launch balloons called grà·tong sà·wãn (heaven grà·tong) from Doi Kong Mu.

Sleeping

Mae Hong Son generally lacks in inspiring accommodation, although there are a couple of standout midrange options. Because it’s a tourist town, accommodation prices fluctuate with the seasons, and outside of the high season (November to January) it’s worth pursuing a discount.

BUDGET

Friend House (0 5362 0119; 20 Th Pradit Jong Kham; r 150-400B) Superclean rooms run from the ultra basic that share hot-water bathrooms to larger en-suite rooms. Set in a teak and concrete house, the upstairs rooms have a view of the lake. Breakfast is available and there is a laundry service.

Home For Relaxing (0 5362 0313; 26/1 Th Chamnan Sathit; r 200B) Run by a friendly young couple from Chiang Mai, the three rooms here are in a cosy wooden house near Nong Jong Kham.

Palm House (0 5361 4022; 22/1 Th Chamnansathit; r 300-600B; ) Resembling an apartment complex in the suburban US, this two-storey cement building offers several characterless but clean rooms with TV, hot water and fan/air-con. The helpful owner speaks English and can arrange transport when he’s not napping.

Coffee Morning (0 5361 234; 78 Th Singhanat Bamrung; r 400-600B) This old wooden house unites an attractive cafe-and-bookshop and four basic but cosy rooms. Considering that bathrooms are shared, the high-season rates aren’t exactly a deal, but free internet

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