Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [356]
Panorama Hotel (0 5361 1757; www.panorama.8m.com; 51 Th Khunlum Praphat; r 400-1200B; ) Popular with tour groups, this large, long-standing hotel features a cluttered lobby and several plain, well-worn rooms. The location is quite convenient though.
Romtai (0 5361 2437; Th Chumnanatit; r 500-900B, bungalows 1200B; ) Behind the lakeside temples, this place has a huge variety of accommodation, ranging from spacious, clean rooms to bungalows looking over a lush garden with fishponds.
Mae Hong Son Hill Resort (0 5361 2475; 106/2 Th Khunlum Praphat; bungalows with fan/air-con 500/600B; ) Although it doesn’t look like much at first, this quiet spot offers 24 well-kept bungalows, each with woven bamboo walls, a bit of furniture, hot showers and a private veranda. It’s a friendly, family-run place.
MIDRANGE
Piya Guest House (0 5361 1260; piyaguesthouse@hotmail.com; 1/1 Th Khunlum Praphat; bungalows 600B; ) Although the bungalows and the garden they’re set in appear a bit tired, the rooms have wooden floors, air-con and hot showers, and are well furnished and of a decent size. There is a pleasant lake view from the restaurant.
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DETOUR: THE MAE HONG SON LOOP
One of the most popular motorcycle riding tours in northern Thailand is the circuitous route that begins in Chiang Mai and passes through the length of Mae Hong Son province before looping back to the city – a round trip of nearly 1000km.
The Mae Hong Son loop really begins 34km north of Chiang Mai when you turn onto Rte 1095 and lean into the first of its 1864 bends. It’s slow going, and you start climbing almost immediately; however, the good thing about this route is that potential overnight stops are frequent – many of the towns with good accommodation and food are less than 70km apart –giving riders ample chance to reclaim the blood flow to their bottoms. Convenient overnight stops include Pai, 130km from Chiang Mai, Soppong, another 40km up the road, and Mae Hong Son, 65km from Soppong.
Upon reaching Khun Yuam, 70km south of Mae Hong Son, you can opt to take Rte 1263 to Mae Chaem, before continuing back to Chiang Mai via Doi Inthanon, the country’s highest peak, or you can continue south to Mae Sariang and follow Rte 108 all the way back to Chiang Mai via Hot, although the distances between towns here are greater and best done on a more powerful and more comfortable motorcycle.
An excellent driving companion is Golden Triangle Rider’s Mae Hong Son Loop Guide Map, available at most bookshops in Chiang Mai. The map shows accurate distances between locations along the loop, as well as potential side trips and other helpful information.
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Pana Huts (0 5361 4331; www.panahuts.com; 293/9 Moo 11 Th Makhasanti; r & bungalows 700-750B) Set in a wooded area outside of town, the five slightly overpriced bamboo huts all have hot-water bathrooms and terraces. The communal area feels appropriately rustic, with its thatched teak leaf roof, wooden benches and enclosed campfire for chilly nights.
Golden Hut Resort (0 5361 4294; www.goldenhut.com; 253 Moo 11 Th Makhasanti; r & bungalows 700-1800B; ) Outside of town near Sang Tong Huts, this Thai-style ‘resort’ compound combines faux-Roman pillars and concrete pandas with a variety of bungalows and rooms. Unabashedly corny, but comfortable and quiet.
Sang Tong Huts (0 5362 0680; www.sangtonghuts.com; Th Makhasanti; r 700B, bungalows 800-3000B; ) This popular set of bungalows in a wooded area outside of town is one of the more character-filled places to stay. There’s a huge variety of bungalows, all of them spacious and well designed. And the tasty baked goods and a pool make up for the distance from the centre of town. It’s popular among repeat visitors to Mae Hong Son, so it pays to book ahead.
Jongkham Place (0 5361 4294; 4/2 Th Udom Chao Nites; bungalows 800B, ste 2000B; ) This new family-run place by the lake has four attractive wooden bungalows and one penthouse-like suite. All accommodation includes TV, fridge and air-con.
Residence@MaeHongSon