Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [365]
Despite its immense popularity, Pai has largely been able to remain a positive example of tourism development in Thailand. Unlike elsewhere in the country, the residents of Pai have maintained a significant role in the development of their town. Natural and cultural conservation have long been fundamental aspects of Pai’s tourism sector. And the town has been able to remain loyal to its rural roots, which form the basis of a lively art and music scene that leave most visitors with an overwhelmingly positive impression.
Tourism has also brought prosperity to the formerly isolated farming community. Land in desirable parts of the town is said to sell for as much as US$65,000 an acre, and many locals are now employed in various tourist service–related jobs, or supplement their income by selling handicrafts. Roads and other infrastructure have improved, and in 2007, Pai’s commercial airport commenced flights. And the general consensus among residents is that they welcome the tourists and the income they bring.
On the other hand, the huge influx of visitors to Pai has also resulted in a host of new problems. The town is beginning to experience difficulties in dealing with increasing amounts of rubbish and sewage. Locals complain of being kept awake by the sound of live music and partying. Drug use is widespread. And the city’s police force has garnered considerable negative press where it concerns tourists and tourism, ranging from a brief crackdown on so-called ‘illegal dancing’ in the city’s bars, to the controversial shooting death of a Canadian tourist in early 2008.
In some ways the 2005 floods have been something of a wake-up call for the residents of Pai. Closing times at the town’s bars are now strictly enforced, wastewater treatment is in the process of being made mandatory, and a new dump is being considered. But if Pai continues to maintain its current level of popularity, it remains to be seen whether or not the town can maintain the same level of responsible development that made it such an attractive destination to begin with.
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Wang Chang Puek Pai Resort (0 5369 9796; www.wangchangpuek.com; bungalows with fan/air-con 1200/2500B; ) This newish place boasts some of the more attractive midrange riverside bungalows in town. Rooms are spacious and attractive, and have wide balconies that encourage lazy riverside relaxing. The fan bungalows differ little from their air-con sisters and represent excellent value.
Top End
Rim Pai Cottage (0 5369 9133; www.rimpaicottage.com; Th Chaisongkhram; bungalows incl breakfast 1500-5000B; ) The homelike bungalows here are spread out along a secluded and beautifully wooded section of the Nam Pai. The interiors have a romantic feel with their mosquito nets and Thai decorating details, and the open bathrooms are particularly nice. There are countless cosy riverside corners to relax at, and a palpable village-like feel about the whole place. Rim Pai is an excellent deal in low season when the prices drop dramatically.
Pai River Corner (0 5369 9049; www.pairivercorner.com; Th Chaisongkhram; r incl breakfast 3270-6540B; ) Boasting accommodation that is ‘Natural, Fresh, Private’, the nine rooms here include beautiful Thai furniture, gorgeous colours and lots of deluxe details. Definitely the place for the design-conscious, all rooms have river-facing balconies and some have lounges and interior spa pools. Discounts are available in low season.
Pai Vimaan Resort (0 5369 9403; wwww.paivimaan.com; Th Wiang Tai; r 3500-4500, ste 10,000B; ) This is the most expensive place to stay in ‘downtown’ Pai, although there are other options with more character. The duplex bungalows are bright