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The Quarter (0 5369 9423; www.thequarterhotel.com; 245 Moo 1 Th Chaisongkhram; r 4800B; ) With more in common with Ko Samui than Pai, this modern resort is the town’s most self-consciously stylish place to stay. The 36 rooms face a central pool and are simultaneously minimalist and well equipped. The hotel is next door to Pai Hospital.

OUT OF TOWN

Southeast of town are a number of places to stay along the road that leads to the hot springs, not very far from Wat Phra That Mae Yen.

Budget

Tacomepai (08 6112 3504; Ban Teen That; bungalows 150-300B) For the ultimate Pai experience, base yourself at this rather eccentric compound, 7km south of town along Rte 1095. Consisting of eight truly rustic bungalows spread out over a semi-wooded hillside, the place is run by Sandot, an enthusiastic local who encourages his guests to take part in events such as local festivals and crop harvests. It may not be the most comfortable or most well-organised place to stay, but you’re bound to collect some memories.

Unicorn’s House (0 5369 8068; Wiang Tai; bungalows 250-350B) This is one of the few remaining places still offering cheap and basic bamboo-based accommodation. The compound of 30 stilt-raised bungalows feels something like a remote hill-tribe village, but is within walking distance of downtown. Unicorn is located just across the permanent bridge east of town, and there’s also a branch with more expensive, but cramped bungalows on Th Ratchadamnoen.

John Bamboo Hut (08 1764 4427; www.johnbamboohut.9ha.com; Ban Mae Hi; bungalows 400-2500B) Offers a variety of basic but comfortable bungalows. Some are found in the shade of the eponymous bamboo trees, while others, including a family-sized house, are found on a hill looking over the valley.

Baan Visasut Resort (08 3568 7979; Th Rangsiyanon; bungalows 450-550B) Next door to John Bamboo Hut, this place has five slightly dark, but cosy bungalows in a shady compound.

Sun Hut (0 5369 9730; www.thesunhut.com; 28/1 Ban Mae Yen; r 350-1350B) Located in a jungle-like setting with a stream running through it, this is one of the more unique places in the area. Bungalows are nicely spaced apart and more expensive ones have porches and lots of charm. Service is friendly and gentle, there’s an organic garden, a vegetarian restaurant, and an attractive communal area with hammocks and napping guests.

Midrange

Pairadise (0 5369 8065; www.pairadise.com; 98 Mu 1, Ban Mae Hi; bungalows 850-1350B) Popular with the Western yoga-and-meditation set, this tidy resort looks over the Pai Valley from atop a ridge just outside town. The bungalows are stylish, spacious and include gold leaf lotus murals, beautiful rustic bathrooms and terraces with hammocks. All surround a waterfall-fed pond that is suitable for swimming. Next door, Pai Lanna (08 9691 3367; www.pailanna.com; 169 Mu 1, Ban Mae Yen; bungalows including breakfast 900B) offers a similar, although somewhat more basic setup.

Sipsongpanna Bungalow (0 5369 8259, 08 1881 7631; 60 Mu 5, Ban Juang, Wiang Neua; bungalows 1000-2500B) This fun place boasts a chilled-out atmosphere that feels authentically local rather than contrived. The adobe-style riverside bungalows are rustic and a bit quirky with a mix of bright colours, beds on elevated platforms and sliding-glass doors opening to wide balconies. There are also still a few original wooden bungalows, although these are being phased out. There is a vegetarian cafe and Thai vegetarian cooking lessons are available.

Pai Treehouse (08 1911 3640; www.paitreehouse.com; 90 Moo 2 Mae Hi; bungalows 1000-5500B; ) It’s every child’s fantasy hotel: wooden bungalows suspended from a giant old tree. Even if you can’t score one of the three elusive treehouse rooms (they’re popular), there are several other attractive bungalows, many near the river. On the vast grounds you’ll also find elephants and floating decks on the Mae Nam Pai, all culminating in a family-friendly atmosphere. The resort