Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [372]
A row of outdoor restaurants (dishes 15-40B; 9am-6pm) outside the Tham Lot park entrance offers simple Thai fare.
Mae La-Na
Set in an incredibly picturesque mountain valley 6km off Rte 1095, this tiny Shan village feels like a lost corner of the world. The most famous local attraction is Tham Mae La-Na, a 12km-long cavern with a stream running through it. Although local guides are willing to take people inside, in reality the cave lacks the appropriate infrastructure to support visitors, who run a serious risk of permanently damaging delicate cave formations and disturbing the habitat of sensitive cave fish. A better bet is to check out the nearby Tham Pakarang (Coral Cave) and Tham Phet (Diamond Cave), both of which feature good wall formations. Guides (100B) can be found during the day at the sh·lah (often spelt as sala; open-sided, covered meeting hall) and at the main village shop. Some of the caves may not be accessible during the rainy season.
Mae La-Na is also a good base for some inspiring walks. Some of Mae Hong Son’s most beautiful scenery is within a day’s ramble, and there are several Red and Black Lahu villages nearby. It’s also possible to walk a 20km half-loop all the way from Mae La-Na to Tham Lot and Soppong, staying overnight in Red Lahu villages along the way. Khun Ampha at Maelana Garden Home (below) can provide a basic map and advice. Experienced riders can do this route on a sturdy dirt bike – but not alone or during the rainy season.
The Mae La-Na junction is 13km west of Soppong. Infrequent srng·ta·ou from the highway to the village cost 30B per person – mornings are your best bet. Along the way you’ll pass the Black Lahu village of Jabo, which also boasts a coffin cave.
SLEEPING & EATING
Maelana Garden Home (0 5304 0016, 08 706 6021; r 200-500B) At the edge of town towards Tham Mae La-Na, this attractive farm-like compound combines two wooden houses and a few A-frame bamboo bungalows. The rooms are basic but clean and comfy. Authentic Shan meals can be prepared (80B per person), and the lady who runs it speaks a bit of English and is a good source of information. Call ahead or ask for Khun Ampha at the village shop/petrol station.
A dozen homes in Mae La-Na have collaborated to form a homestay program (per person per night 100B) where the money goes back into a community fund. Meals can be prepared for 70B per person. Enquire at the sporadically staffed wooden house at the entrance to town.
Ban Nam Rin
At this Lisu village 9km south of Soppong towards Pai, you can stay at Lisu Lodge (08 3582 4496, 08 3054 8497; lisulodge@gmail.com; r 150-600B), a quiet place set in beautiful mountain scenery with a garden filled with fruit trees. Choices range from simple, shared bathroom A-frames to wood and stone bungalows with lovely recycled teak furniture, tasteful Thai styling and terraces. A family bungalow is available too. The German owner can give information on nearby hill-tribe villages to visit, plus he makes a wicked mulberry liqueur.
Getting There & Around
Buses and minivans between Pai and Mae Hong Son stop in Soppong and there are six a day in either direction. The trip between Pai and Soppong (ordinary/air-con/minivan 40/80/100B) takes one hour to 1½ or two hours. For details on getting to/from Mae Hong Son Click here.
Motorcycle taxis stationed at the bus stop in Soppong will take passengers to Tham Lot or the Cave Lodge for 70B per person; private pick-up trucks will take you and up to five other people for 300B.
Khun Yuam
pop 6823
About halfway between Mae Sariang and