Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [373]
At the northern end of town, a collection of rusted military trucks marks the Thai-Japan Friendship Memorial Hall (admission 50B; 8am-4pm). Here weapons, military equipment, personal possessions and fascinating black-and-white photographs document the period when the Japanese occupied Khun Yuam in the closing weeks of the war with Burma. After they had recovered, some of the Japanese soldiers stayed in Khun Yuam and married. The last Japanese soldier who settled in the area died in 2000.
About 6km to the west of Khun Yuam, the atmospheric Wat To Phae sits alongside a country stream and boasts a Mon-style chedi and an immaculate Burmese-style wí·hhn. Inside the latter, take a look at the large, 150-year-old Burmese kalaga (embroidered and sequined tapestry) that’s kept behind curtains to one side of the main altar. The tapestry depicts a scene from the Vessantara Jataka and local devotees believe one accrues merit simply by viewing it.
On the slopes of Doi Mae U Khaw, 25km from Khun Yuam via Rte 1263, is the Hmong village of Ban Mae U Khaw. During late November the area blooms with scenic Mexican sunflowers, known locally as dòrk booa torng. This event is incredibly popular among Thais and accommodation in the town is booked out. Continue another 25km along the same route and you’ll reach the 100m Nam Tok Mae Surin (admission 200B; part of the Mae Surin National Park), reportedly Thailand’s highest cataract.
There are a couple of banks with ATMs along the main strip in Khun Yuam, and a few sleeping options. There are also a few homestay options in Ban To Phae, a traditional and picturesque Shan village 6km west of Khun Yuam.
Ban Farang (0 5362 2086; janny5alisa@hotmail.com; 499 Th Ratburana; dm 100B, bungalows 600-1400B; ) is off the main road towards the north end of town (look for the signs near the bus stop). The tidy bungalows are set on a wooded hillside. The cheaper fan bungalows are plain and dark but have a terrace. The more expensive ones come with air-con, fridge, cable TV and a terrace. Herbal massage is available and the restaurant on site is reasonable.
When finished, the two duplex buildings of Khun Yuam Resort (08 9432 1032; www.khunyuamresort.multiply.com; 139 Moo 1 Ban To Phae; 1200-2000B; ), looking over a valley, will have the best views in the area. For now, the existing rooms are large, but featureless and rather overpriced.
On the main road through the town centre, Mithkhoonyoum Hotel (0 5369 1057; 61 Rte 108; r 150-550; ) has simple, clean rooms, some with en-suite bathrooms.
In Khun Yuam you’ll find a collection of modest rice and noodle shops along the east side, or Rte 108, towards the southern end of town. Most of these close by 5pm or 6pm.
Buses stop regularly at Khun Yuam (ordinary/air-con 67/110B, two hours) on their runs between Mae Sariang and Mae Hong Song.
MAE SARIANG
pop 10,012
Little-visited Mae Sariang is gaining a low-key buzz for its attractive riverside setting and potential as a launching pad for sustainable tourism and trekking opportunities. There are several hill-tribe settlements nearby, particularly around Mae La Noi, 30km north of the city, and the area south of Mae Sariang is largely mountainous jungle encompassing both Salawin and Mae Ngao National Parks.
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Information
Mae Sariang has several banks with ATMs and an immigration office (0 5368 1339; Route 108) that will extend your visa by a couple of days if you’re in a pinch and on your way to the border. It’s opposite the petrol station on the road to Mae Hong Son. Internet (per hr 20B) is available next to River House Hotel.
Sights & Activities
There are few formal sights in Mae Sariang. Two adjacent Burmese-Shan temples, Wat Jong Sung and Wat Si Bunruang, just off Mae Sariang’s main street, are definitely worth a visit if