Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [384]
Phimai National Museum
Situated on the banks of Sa Kwan, a 12th-century Khmer reservoir, this museum (0 4447 1167; Th Tha Songkhran; admission 100B; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun) houses a fine collection of Khmer sculptures from Phimai, Phanom Rung and other ruins, as well as ceramics from nearby Ban Prasat. The museum’s most prized possession, a stone sculpture of Angkor King Jayavarman VII, comes from Prasat Phimai and looks very much like a sitting Buddha. There are also displays on Isan culture.
Other Sights
A number of very minor historic features (all free) sit in and around Phimai. Meru Bhramathat (Th Tha Songkhran) is a brick chedi (stupa) dating back to the late Ayuthaya period. Its name is derived from a folk tale that refers to it as the cremation site of King Bhramathat. Most of the city walls have crumbled away, but what’s left of Pratu Chai (Victory Gate), which faces Prasat Phimai at the southern end of the city, is a good indication of how they once looked. South of the gate you can see Kuti Rusi (Hermit’s Quarters), once a healing station, and Tha Nang Sa Phom (daylight hr), a 13th-century landing platform constructed out of laterite now on the grounds of the Fine Arts Department compound.
A bit east of town is Thailand’s largest and oldest banyan tree, a 350-plus-year-old megaflorum spread over an island in a large reservoir. The locals call it Sai Ngam (Beautiful Banyan; admission free; daylight hr), and the extensive system of roots cascading from the branches makes it look like a small forest.
FESTIVALS
The Phimai Festival, staged in mid-November, celebrates the town’s history, with cultural performances, light shows and longboat races. A smaller version of the light show is held on the last Saturday of the month from October to April.
SLEEPING & EATING
Old Phimai Guesthouse (0 4447 1918; www.phimaigh.com; 214/14 Th Chomsudasadet; dm 90B, s 150-350B, d 180-450B; ) The backpacker vibe prevails in this historic wooden house tucked away down a quiet soi. The friendly hosts are a great source of information about Phimai and also run reasonably priced day trips to Phanom Rung.
Boonsiri Guesthouse (08 9424 9942; www.boonsiri.net; 228 Th Chomsudasadet; dm 150B, r 400-500B; ) From the front there doesn’t seem to be a whole lot to this hotel, but there are plenty of good-for-the-price rooms behind the scenes. Standards are high (the dorms have lockers) and the rooms are big and airy. There’s a nice little lounge in the back and wi-fi reaches some of the rooms. They also do Phanom Rung excursions.
Phimai Paradise (0 4428 7565; 100/2 Th Samairuchi; r 400-500B; ) Nothing too fancy, but this newly built block has the best rooms in town.
Baiteiy Restaurant (0 4428 7103; Th Phimai-Chumpuang; dishes 45-200B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Appropriately decorated with some pseudo-Khmer carvings, this pleasant outdoor eatery, about 500m south of Pratu Chai (Victory Gate), does a decent spread of Thai-Isan-Chinese fare, plus a few international staples.
Most of the vendors next to Sai Ngam are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and serve Thai and Isan basics, including pàt phimai, which is basically similar to pàt mèe koh râht (Click here) but always uses handmade noodles. Phimai also has a small night bazaar (Th Anantajinda; 4-10pm).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Phimai has a bus station, but there’s no need to use it since all buses pass near Pratu Chai, the clock tower and the museum on their way in and out of town.
Buses for Phimai leave from Khorat’s Bus Terminal 2 (ordinary/2nd class 45/50B, 1¼ hours) every half-hour until 7pm. Few buses to northern cities pass through town, so it’s easiest to take the Khorat bus to Ban Talat Kae (ordinary/2nd class 10/13B, 15 minutes) at the Hwy 2 junction and catch a connection there.
GETTING AROUND
Phimai is small enough to stroll, but to see more of the town and its environs (eg Sai Ngam) you can hire bicycles from Old Phimai (20/80B per hour/day) and Boonsiri (20/100B per hour/day) guesthouses.
KHAO