Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [385]
Up there on the podium with some of the world’s greatest parks, Khao Yai (08 1877 3127; admission 400B) is Thailand’s oldest and most visited reserve. Covering 2168 sq km, Khao Yai incorporates one of the largest intact monsoon forests remaining in mainland Asia, which is why it was named a Unesco World Heritage Site (as part of the Dong Phayayen–Khao Yai Forest Complex). The mostly English-speaking staff at the visitor centre (8am-8pm) are very friendly and helpful.
Rising to 1351m at the summit of Khao Rom, the park’s terrain covers five vegetation zones: evergreen rainforest (100m to 400m); semi-evergreen rainforest (400m to 900m); mixed deciduous forest (northern slopes at 400m to 600m); hill evergreen forest (over 1000m); and savannah and secondary-growth forest in areas where agriculture and logging occurred before it was protected. Many orchids bloom from the middle of June through the end of July (one of the few benefits of rainy-season visits).
Some 300 elephants tramp the park’s boundaries. Other mammals recorded include barking deer, gaur, bears, tigers, leopards, otters, various gibbons and macaques and some rather large pythons. Khao Yai also has one of Thailand’s largest populations of hornbills, including the great hornbill (nók gòk or nók gah·hang), king of the bird kingdom, as well as the wreathed hornbill (nók grahm cháhng; literally, ‘elephant-jaw bird’), Indian pied hornbill (nók kàak) and brown hornbill (nók ngêuak se nám ahn). Over 200 bird species make the park their home, with some 315 having been recorded as sighted.
There are two primary entrances to the park. The first is the northern entrance through Nakhon Ratchasima Province, with most travellers passing through the town of Pak Chong (see Click here for transport information). The southern entrance is in Prachinburi Province (see Click here), which is closer to Bangkok, but less popular.
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Sights & Activities
The easiest attraction to reach, other than the roadside overlooks (Pha Diew Die, on the way to the radar station, is the highest), is Nam Tok Kong Kaew, a small waterfall right behind the visitor centre. Nam Tok Haew Narok, whose three levels combine to form a 150m drop, is the biggest waterfall and is just a 1km walk from the road in the far south of the park. But the beauty award goes to 25m Nam Tok Haew Suwat, which scooped a starring role in Danny Boyle’s film The Beach. You can swim in the pool at the bottom. Though easily reached by car, this forest-encased jewel is best reached via Trail 1 (8km), a somewhat challenging path (you sometimes have to detour around fallen trees) that connects it and other waterfalls to the visitor centre. There’s a good chance of seeing gibbons and hornbills, and it’s probably the best footpath for spotting elephants, though encounters are unlikely (the roads are better for this).
It’s 5.4km from the visitor centre to Nong Phak Chi observation tower, along Trail 5. This tower (there’s another one closer to the visitor centre) overlooks a little lake and a salt lick, and is one of the best wildlife-spotting spots in the park. This is the most likely place you’ll see a tiger, but you have to be very lucky (like lottery-winner lucky) to do so. Trail 9 (3km) is a seldom-used path to this tower, but it’s the better bet for spotting animals on your way. The shortest route to the tower, ideal for getting there at dawn or dusk (the best wildlife-watching times), is a 1km path along a creek bed, starting near the Km35 pillar.
Most other hiking trails (some of them formed by the movement of wildlife) aren’t as well trodden, so guides are recommended. No matter what trail you take, you should wear boots and long trousers. Some of the paths get a little rough, and during the rainy season leeches are a problem – mosquito repellent also helps keep them away. The staff at the visitor centre give hiking advice (especially important in the rainy season), and bikes (per hr 50B) can also be hired there. Rangers, if they’re available, will guide trail walks. Prices