Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [400]
Wat Phra That Nong Bua
The richly adorned 55m chedi at Wat Phra That Nong Bua (Th Thammawithi; daylight hr) closely resembles the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India. Two groups of four niches on each side of the four-sided chedi contain Buddhas standing in stylised Gupta or Dvaravati closed-robe poses. It’s the only square stupa in Ubon Province (unless you count the older one it was built over, or the four similar but smaller ones on the corners). The elaborate jataka reliefs on the outside were getting a renovation during our last visit. It’s on the outskirts of town; take srng·ta·ou 10.
WAT BAN NA MEUANG
Also known as Wat Sa Prasan Suk, Wat Ban Na Meuang (daylight hr) stands out from other temples in many ways. Most famously, the bòht sits on a boat: a ceramic encrusted replica of King Rama IX’s royal barge Suphannahong, complete with a sculpted crew. The wí·hhn also has a boat-shaped base (this time the prince’s personal craft), and this one is surrounded by an actual pond. These were not just artistic endeavours. The water represents our desires and the boats represent staying above them. Finally, to reach all of these, you must pass under an immense statue of Airavata, Hindu god Indra’s three-headed elephant mount. The commissioner of these creations, Luang Pu Boon Mi, died in 2001 and his body (not to be confused with the lifelike wax statue) is on display in the sh·lah next to the boat bòht. The temple is 4km northwest of town, 1km off the ring road; srng·ta·ou 8 passes it.
Wat Jaeng
Founded around the time of the city’s founding, Wat Jaeng (Th Nakhon Baan; daylight hr) has an adorable Lan Xang-style bòht. There are large eave brackets on the side and the carved wooden facade depicts Airavata and two mythical lions.
Wat Supatanaram
Called Wat Supat (Th Supat; daylight hr) for short, the unique bòht at this riverside temple, built between 1920 and 1936, features a Thai roof, European arches and a Khmer base. And, in contrast to other temple structures of the region, it’s made entirely of stone, like the early Khmer stone rah·sàht. Hanging nearby is a wooden bell, reputed to be the largest in Thailand.
Ko Hat Wat Tai
Picnicking families flock to this island in Mae Nam Mun during the hot, dry months of February to May when beaches rise along its shore. A makeshift bamboo bridge connects it to the northern shore and floating restaurants set up shop.
WARIN CHAMRAP DISTRICT TEMPLES
The famous monk and meditation master Luang Pu Cha, a former disciple of Luang Pu Man known for his simple and direct teaching method, was quite a name in these parts. During his life he founded the following two well-known forest monasteries and many more around the world.
Wat Nong Pa Phong
Peaceful Wat Nong Pa Phong (daylight hr) is known for its quiet discipline and daily routine of work and meditation. Dozens of Westerners have lived here over recent decades, and several still do. The wát features the golden chedi where Luang Pu Cha’s relics are interred and a three-storey museum (admission free; 8am-4.30pm) displaying an odd assortment of items, from Luang Pu Ajahn Cha’s worldly possessions to world currencies to a foetus in a jar. The temple is about 10km past the river. Srng·ta·ou 3 gets you within 2km; a motorcycle taxi (if one is available) should cost 20B.
Wat Pa Nanachat
Wat Pa Nanachat (www.watpahnanachat.org; Ban Bung Wai; daylight hr) is a Western-oriented wát, opened in 1975 specifically for non-Thais, and English is the primary language. Those with previous meditation experience are welcome to apply (write to the Guest Monk, Wat Pa Nanachat, Ban Bung Wai, Amphoe Warin Chamrap, Ubon Ratchathani 34310) to stay here. Guests must follow all temple rules including eating just one meal a day, rising at 3am and shaving heads and eyebrows.
There’s nothing really