Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [401]
Festivals
Ubon’s famous Candle Parade (Hae Tian) began during the reign of King Rama V when the governor decided the city’s rocket festival was too dangerous. The original simple designs have since grown to gigantic, elaborately carved wax sculptures. It’s a part of Khao Phansaa, a Buddhist holiday marking the commencement of wan òrk pan·sh, the Rains Retreat (Buddhist Lent) in July. The rest of the year you can see the candles at most temples (where they’re kept until they’re melted down for the next parade) and at the OTOP Center (Click here). The festival is very popular with Thai tourists and the city’s hotels are booked out long in advance.
Sleeping
BUDGET
River Moon Guesthouse (0 4528 6093; 21 Th Sisaket 2; s 120B, d 150-180B) Every year it gets tougher and tougher to recommend this crumbling old place, but it still sees a trickle of travellers wanting something out of the ordinary. The rustic rooms, 300m from the train station, are in old railway workers quarters and facilities are shared.
New Nakornluang Hotel (0 4525 4768; 84-88 Th Yutthaphan; r 170-320B; ) Unlike River Moon, which is run down with character, this definitely-not-new place is simply a dive. But, if you want to spend as little as possible and still be in the city centre, it’s clean enough.
Tokyo Hotel (0 4524 1262; 360 Th Uparat; r 200-600B; ) Besides being a popular though dour midranger, the Tokyo is a long-standing budget favourite. The pricier rooms are in a new tower while the humble air-con and fan affairs (all with cold-water showers) are in the old. The free wi-fi sometimes creeps across to rooms in the old building.
Aree Mansion (0 4526 5518; 208-212 Th Pha Daeng; r 250-350B; ) The clear pick of the pack for shoestring travellers can’t hide its age, but it deserves credit for trying. The bright, newly painted rooms are big and clean and even the cheap fan versions come with hot water, fridge and free wireless.
Changtom Residence (0 4526 5525; 216 Th Suriyat; r 400B; ) Not only does this mid-sized place have clean, comfortable rooms, but the friendly English-speaking owner will pick you up for free when you arrive in town.
Phadaeng Mansion (0 4525 4600; 126 Th Pha Daeng; r 400-500B; ) The copies of classic paintings on the walls don’t make this new (opened in 2008) place classy, though they’re a nice touch. Rooms are boxy, but they’re good and have little balconies. And free wi-fi reaches them all.
Chinsawat Mansion (0 4524 1179; 164/4 Th Saphasit; r 450B; ) Minus the Monets, Chinsawat isn’t much different from Phadaeng, only it somehow manages to exude a homey feeling, which isn’t a common feat for the typical mansion hotel. Also like Phadaeng, the rooms have little balconies, but here there isn’t much to look at from them.
Srikamol Hotel (0 4524 6088; 26 Th Ubonsak; r 450-600B; ) Unlike the previously listed places in this price range, Srikamol has been around the block. From the chandelier in the lobby to the tile floors, there are still signs from its time as one of Ubon’s best; though those days are way behind it. It’s not better than the others, but if you like it old-school, you’ll like this one.
MIDRANGE
Sri Isan Hotel (0 4526 1011; www.sriisanhotel.com; 62 Th Ratchabut; r 650-1400B; ) The except-ion to the rule of Ubon’s typical uninspired midrangers, this bright, cheerful place is full of natural light, which streams down through the atrium and gives the lobby an open, airy feel. The rooms are small and the decor is a little twee (a knitted toilet-roll cover wouldn’t be out of place) but standards are high and an orchid comes gratis on every pillow. They’ll pick you up at the train station or airport for free, but charge 100B from the bus station.
Ubon Buri Resort (0 4526 6777; www.ubonburihotel.com;