Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [402]
TOP END
Laithong Hotel (0 4526 4271; www.laithonghotel.net; 50 Th Phichit Rangsan; r 1300-1900B, ste 3300B; ) The rooms should, perhaps, be a bit swankier at these prices, but the attentive staff simply cannot be improved upon. It has all the usual ‘executive’ facilities, a Japanese restaurant and the odd token nod to traditional Isan design. There’s a 3rd-floor outdoor swimming pool.
Sunee Grand Hotel (0 4535 2900; www.suneegrandhotel.com; Th Chayangkun; r 2800-3600B, ste 4800-25,000B; ) One of the few hotels in Isan that could hold its own in Bangkok, the Sunee Grand is a stunner; and far less expensive than its peers in the capital. The owners, who opened the hotel in 2008, appear to have nailed it in all regards, from the stylish light fixtures to the at-a-snap service. There’s a large business centre, a piano player in the lobby and an adjacent shopping mall, plus a rooftop waterpark and bowling alley were under construction at the time of writing.
Eating
Night Market (4pm-1am) It’s still rather small, but Ubon has improved its night market in recent years.
Boon Ni Yon Uthayan (0 4524 0950; Th Si Narong; per plate 10-15B; breakfast & lunch Tue-Sun) Run by the ascetic Sisa Asoka group, this restaurant has an impressive vegetarian buffet under a giant roof. Most of the food is grown organically just outside the city.
Porntip (08 9720 8101; Th Saphasit; dishes 20-100B, ½ chickens 60-80B; 9am-6pm) It looks like a tornado whipped through this no-frills spot, but the chefs cook up a storm of their own. This relocated restaurant, formerly Gai Yang Wat Jaeng, is considered by many to be Ubon’s premier purveyor of gài yâhng, sôm·am, sausages and other Isan food.
Chiokee (0 4525 4017; 307-317 Th Kheuan Thani; dishes 25-160B; 6am-7pm) Offering a slightly incongruous blend of East (dark-wood styling and a decorative Chinese shrine) and West (Heinz ketchup and white tablecloths), this popular (especially for breakfast) spot whips up a wide range of dishes, from eel sour-and-spicy soup to hamburgers.
Bismila Ali (08 6871 5852; 177 Th Kheuan Thani; dishes 30-100B; 7am-9pm) This little hole in the wall serves both Indian and Thai-Muslim (try the ‘fish three taste’: red tilapia cooked in chilli sauce) food. Unless you just snatch a roti from the cart out front, your food won’t come fast but it’ll be done right.
Krua Ruen Pae (no roman-script sign; 0 4532 4342; dishes 40-300B; lunch & dinner) One of several floating restaurants on the Mun River, Krua Ruen Pae serves up tasty Thai and Isan food and a relaxed atmosphere. The ôm kàh gài (spicy chicken curry with galangal in coconut milk) is lovely. If driving here, exit to the west and then go under the bridge.
U-Bake (0 4526 5671; 49/3 Th Phichit Rangsan; chocolate cake 60B; lunch & dinner) There are many good bakeries in town, but only U-Bake gets to share space with lovely Jumpa-Hom.
Risotto (08 1879 1869; Th Phichit Rangsan; dishes 80-300B; lunch & dinner) The dining room can’t quite pull off an Italian vibe, but the kitchen offers a dash of la dolce vita. The menu has a full roster of pasta, plus salmon steak and one of the best pizzas in Isan.
Jumpa-Hom (0 4526 0398; 49/3 Th Phichit Rangsan; dishes 55-1500B; dinner) One of the classiest places in town, Jumpa-Hom serves pricey but good Thai, Isan, Chinese and Western cuisine on a gorgeous water-and-plant–filled wooden deck. The dining room is lovely too and has a choice of chairs or cushions for floor seating.
Drinking & Entertainment
Ubon has no nightlife district; the few happening places are spread out across town.
U-Bar (0 4526 5141; 97/8-10 Th Phichit Rangsan; 7pm-1am) While other clubs have come and gone over the