Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [417]
Aek Udon International Hospital (0 4234 2555; 555/5 Th Pho Si) Has a 24-hour casualty department.
Fuzzy Ken’s (08 6011 4627; Th Prajak Silpakorn; 9am-midnight Mon-Sat) Has one of the best used-book shops in Isan.
MT Coffee (300/4 Th Prajak Silpakorn; per hr 30B; 9am-9pm) Expensive but fast internet connection and pleasant surrounds.
On Time (0 4224 7792; 539/72 Th Sai Uthit; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) One of many travel agencies on this corner.
Post office (Th Wattananuwong; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)
Tourist police (0 4221 1291; Th Naresuan)
MONEY
There are many banks open regular business hours lined along Th Pho Si.
Kasikornbank (Charoensri Complex, Th Teekathanont; 11am-8pm) One of several banks in the mall.
TOURIST INFORMATION
The best sources of information on Udon Thani are the Udon Thani Guide (www.udonmap.com) and Udon Thani Map, both of which are available for free at fa·ràng-focused businesses.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 0 4232 5406; Th Thesa; 8.30am-4.30pm) Has information on Udon and Nong Khai Provinces.
Sights
UDORN SUNSHINE NURSERY
Ever seen a plant dance? Well, you can do it here. Originally earning notoriety for producing the first ever orchid made into a perfume, the Udorn Sunshine Nursery (08 5747 4144; 127 Th Udorn-Nong Samrong; 8am-5pm), just northwest of town, has since developed a hybrid of Codariocalyx motorius ohashi leguminosae that curiously ‘dances’ to music. The mature gyrant has long oval leaves, plus smaller ones of a similar shape. If you sing or talk to the plant in a high-pitched voice (saxophone or violin works even better), a few of the smaller leaves will shift back and forth. This is no hype; we’ve seen it for ourselves, although it’s much more of a waltz than a jig. The plants are most active from November to February, the cool season, and from 7am to 9.30am and 4.30pm to 6.30pm.
The plants aren’t for sale. You can, however, buy Udorn Dancing Tea, made from the plant, along with the more famous Miss Udorn Sunshine orchids and perfumes. The nursery’s newest product is Udorn Toob Moob Maeng Kaeng, a perfume derived from brown stink bugs.
To get here, go under the Ban Nongsamrong sign on Rte 2024, then after 150m follow the Udorn Sunshine Fragrant Orchid sign. Srng·ta·ou 5 and 16 pass here, and the Yellow Bus will get you nearby. A túk-túk from Udon’s city centre should cost about 80B.
WAT JIIN SANJAO PU-YA
The garish Sanjao Pu-Ya (Th Nittayo; daylight hr) on the southern shore of Nong Bua is a particularly large Chinese temple that attests to the wealth of the local Thai-Chinese merchant class. At its heart, the Pu-Ya Shrine houses small images of the god and goddess of mercy.
For 10 days during December’s Thung Si Meuang Fair, which features dragon dancing (on 1, 5 and 10 December) and Isan cultural performances, Pu (Grandpa) and Ya (Grandma) are moved to a temporary temple in the northwest corner of City Field in a grand procession.
UDON THANI PROVINCIAL MUSEUM
Filling a 1920s colonial-style building that used to be a girls’ school, Udon Thani Provincial Museum (0 4224 5976; Th Pho Si; admission free; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun) has an interesting catch-all collection spanning geology to handicrafts.
Sleeping
Puttarag Hotel (0 4224 7032; 380/15 Th Prajak Silpakorn; r 160B) This cold-water flophouse is right in the thick of Udon’s nightlife. The wood floors lend a hint of history, but mostly it’s just old.
Top Mansion (0 4234 5015; topmansion@yahoo.com; 35/3 Th Sampanthamit; r 350-490B; ) Mix the quality, location and well-appointed rooms and this newish tower gives the biggest bang for your baht in Udon. Wi-fi isn’t free, but it does reach the rooms.
City Lodge (0 4222 4439; thecitylodge@yahoo.com; 83/14-15 Th Wattananuwong; r 600-1000B; ) This British-owned property is a good example of the new breed of small hotels in this area that deliver more value and style than the big boys. The already bright and colourful rooms are cheered up even more with wicker furniture and free wi-fi.
Charoensri Grand Royal