Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [418]
Eating & Drinking
They’re nothing near Chiang Mai quality, but Udon’s Centre Point, Precha and UD Bazar Night Markets (Th Prajak Silpakorn; 4-11pm), in front of the train station, offer an impressive spread. Besides dining you can shop for clothes, watch football on the big screen or listen to a live band.
A bevy of massage and paint-your-own pottery stands joins the small food shops on the sunset-watching side of Nong Prajak Park to form the Nong Prajak Night Market (Th Thesa; 5.30am-10pm). It has proven so popular that it now runs all day, but it’s still busiest at night.
Kwan Jit (no roman-script sign; 08 6367 7565; Th Adunyadet; dishes 39-89B; dinner) If you’re looking for something mellow, this peculiar 1960s-themed pub will satisfy. The music is classic Thai folk songs, played quiet enough that you can chat, and the food is mostly Isan style. But there’s no English on the menu.
Maeya (no roman-script sign; 0 4222 3889; 79/81 Th Ratchaphatsadu; dishes 40-260B; lunch & dinner) One part Thai restaurant and three parts English tearoom, this labyrinth has waiters dressed in black tie and a menu stretching from sandwiches to wild boar in red-curry sauce. Their translations are a little cryptic; the ‘rice with spit in sauce’ is really ‘rice with liver in sauce’.
Rabiang Phatchanee (0 4224 1515; 53/1 Th Suphakit Janya; dishes 40-350B; lunch & dinner) On the lake’s east shore, this classy place whips up a fabulous array of local dishes (including many you’ve probably never tried before, like spicy appendix salad) and serves them on the shady deck or in air-conditioned dining rooms.
Irish Clock (0 4224 7450; 19/5-6 Th Sampanthamit; dishes 60-350B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This wood-trimmed, Guinness-infused pub is an island of class in a sea of pick-up joints. The menu has both Thai and fa·ràng food, plus there are hotel rooms upstairs and free wi-fi.
Also recommended:
Ruan Anchan (no roman-script sign; per bottle 10B; dinner) Not all juice is created equal, and this highly recommended lakeside stand proves it.
Bella Italia (0 4234 3134; Charoensri Complex, Th Teekathanont; dishes 80-700B; lunch & dinner) As close to Italy and as fancy as you’ll get in Udon.
Sumo (0 4222 4542; 300/6-8 Th Prajak Silpakorn; dishes 39-1800B; lunch & dinner) A good choice for Japanese.
Shopping
Teenon Meechai (0 4222 2838; 206-208 Th Pho Si; 2-5pm Mon-Sat) This souvenir shop has so much quirky style you’ll forget you’re a tourist.
Udon Bho-Phin Trachu (no roman-script sign; 0 4224 5618; Th Porniyom; 7am-6.30pm) There’s a great selection of silk and cotton, including some natural-dyed fabrics, at this large spot northwest of Nong Prajak Lake. Look for the sign with the wooden roof.
Getting There & Away
AIR
THAI (www.thaiairways.com), Nok Air (www.nokair.com) and Air Asia (www.airasia.com) each fly twice daily to Bangkok (one hour). Fares average 2200B one way, but with promotions are often much lower. Lao Airlines (www.laoairlines.com) flies on Friday and Sunday to Luang Prabang for 2600B one way.
The Charoensri Grand offers an airport shuttle for 30B per person.
BUS
For most destinations, including Bangkok (2nd/1st class 321/412B, eight hours, every half-hour), buses use the downtown Bus Terminal 1 (0 4222 2916; Th Sai Uthit) or the street in front of it. Other destinations include Khorat (2nd/1st class 207/248B, 4½ hours, every half-hour), Sakon Nakhon (ordinary/1st-class 73/148B, 3½ hours, every half-hour), Khon Kaen (2nd/1st class 83/104B, 2½ hours, every 15 minutes), Pattaya (2nd/1st class 419/470B, 10 hours, 10 daily), Suvarnabhumi International Airport (418B, eight hours, 9pm) and Vientiane (80B, two hours, six daily; you must already have a Lao visa).