Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [456]
National Parks
Kaeng Krachan (Click here), the largest national park in Thailand, covers nearly half of Phetchaburi Province and is known for its waterfalls and birdwatching. From the tall peaks of Khao Sam Roi Yot (Click here) there are views of the gulf, the coast and limestone cliffs.
Getting There & Away
Frequent air-con buses from Bangkok’s southern bus station travel to all major cities in the region, including Phetchaburi, Hua Hin and Chumphon. Air-con services also connect to smaller destinations such as Prachuap Khiri Khan, Hat Ban Krut and Bang Saphan Yai on at least a daily basis. Thai Railways’ southern line from Bangkok conveniently stops at most points of interest for the independent traveller. Chumphon is the major departure point for boats to Ko Tao, and there are three flights per day to/from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport and Hua Hin.
Getting Around
Public transport is not as prolific or well organised as further south, but it’s still relatively easy to get to most places. Buses and trains connect the region’s major cities, and motorcycle taxis and sŏrng·ta·ou (also spelt sǎwngthǎew; pick-up trucks) cater for shorter trips. The exception is reaching the two national parks, where you’ll either need to have your own wheels, charter a taxi or sŏrng·ta·ou, or join a tour.
PHETCHABURI PROVINCE
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PHETCHABURI (PHETBURI)
pop 40,259
Most travellers see Phetchaburi (commonly known as Phetburi) as a rushed day trip from Bangkok or from the window of a southbound bus or train, but a more leisurely approach allows you to peel back the intriguing layers of Thai history. Traditional Siam can still be glimpsed in century-old teak houses, and by sampling Phetchaburi’s culinary heritage. When you’ve had your fill of the town’s tasty desserts, climb to hilltop royal palaces in what is called the ‘Living Ayuthaya’ or contemplate the Buddhist shrine in the cave sanctuary of Khao Luang.
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Orientation
Arriving by train, follow the road southeast of the tracks until you come to Th Ratchadamnoen, then turn right. Follow Th Ratchadamnoen south to the second major intersection and turn left towards central Phetchaburi. A shm·lór (also spelt sǎamláw; three-wheeled pedicab) from the train station to Saphan Chomrut (Chomrut Bridge) is 20B. If you’ve come by air-con bus, you’ll stop near the night market on the northern edge of the centre.
Information
There’s no formal information source in town, but the Rabieng Rim Nam Guest House (Click here) is a great resource for both Phetchaburi and Kaeng Krachan National Park (Click here). The Sun Hotel (Click here) has wireless internet and one terminal (per hr 100B).
Main post office (cnr Th Ratwithi & Th Damnoen Kasem)
Police station (0 3242 5500; Th Ratwithi) Near the intersection of Th Ratchadamnoen.
Siam Commercial Bank (2 Th Damnoen Kasem) Other nearby banks also offer foreign exchange and ATMs.
Telephone office (cnr Th Ratwithi & Th Damnoen Kasem; 7am-10pm) Upstairs at the post office.
Sights & Activities
There are scores of wát in town, and a few different ways to see them. Take a walk around town – most hotels offer free basic maps, while the Phetchaburi Attractions and Travelling Guide (70B), published by Phetchaburi Rajabhat University, has more detailed maps and descriptions. Alternatively, you can hire a shm·lór or motorbike taxi starting at around 300B. Motorbikes are for hire at the Rabieng Rim Guest House (Click here). It also offers a one-day tour visiting Phetchaburi’s wát and palaces (400B to 600B per person).
KHAO LUANG & KHAO BANDAI-IT CAVES
The main cavern in the cave sanctuary of Khao Luang (donation