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appreciated; 8am-6pm) is lined with impressive stalactites and crammed with old Buddha statues, many of which were put in place by Rama IV. Sunlight from a hole in the chamber ceiling illuminates the images and makes for great photos. To the rear of the main cavern is an entrance to a third, smaller chamber. On the right of the entrance is Wat Bunthawi, with a sh·lah (often spelt sala; meeting hall) designed by the abbot of the wát himself and a bòht (central sanctuary) with impressively carved wooden door panels. Around the cave you’ll meet brazen monkeys looking for handouts. The cave is 4km north of town.

An even more magical cave sanctuary is Khao Bandai-It (donation appreciated; 9am-4pm), 2km west of town. A monastery sits regally on the hill, while several large caverns pock the hillside. English-speaking guides lead tours through the caves.

From Phetchaburi catch a shm·lór (60B to 70B) or motorcycle taxi (40B to 50B) to the sanctuaries.

KHAO WANG & PHRA NAKHON KHIRI HISTORICAL PARK

You can’t miss Khao Wang (Palace Hill) – it rises importantly on the northwest side of Phetchaburi, studded with wát and crowned with King Mongkut’s palace, while the white point of Phra That Chom Phet skewers the sky. Cobblestone paths wind up and around it, leading to panoramic views of Phetchaburi’s wát-smattered skyline.

Phra Nakhon Khiri (Holy City Hill; 0 3240 1006; admission 150B; 9am-4pm), the palace area on the top, is a national historical park and a good spot to take in views of the town while curious monkeys look at you (and make plays for your beverage or purse). The walk up is fairly strenuous, especially in the heat. A tram (one way adult/child 70/30B; 8.30am-5.30pm) is the easier way.

On Mondays a night market lines the street in front of Khao Wang, and besides being filled with the usual food stalls it’s also a flea market. It’s a fun place to peruse if you happen to be in town on a Monday.

PHRA RATCHAWANG BAN PEUN

Just over 1km south of the city centre, and inside a Thai military base, is the European-influenced Phra Ratchawang Ban Peun (Ban Peun Palace; 0 3242 8083; admission 50B; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri). Construction began in 1910 at the behest of Rama V (who died just after the project was started) and was completed in 1916. It was designed by German architects, who used the opportunity to showcase contemporary German innovations in construction and interior design. The structure is typical of the early 20th century, a period that saw a Thai passion for erecting European-style buildings in an effort to keep up with the ‘modern’ architecture of its colonised neighbours. The outside of the two-storey palace is not too exciting, but it’s worth visiting to see the exquisite glazed tiles in the interior.

Festivals & Events

The Phra Nakhon Khiri Fair takes place in early February and lasts nine days. Centred on Khao Wang and Phetchaburi’s historic temples, the festivities include a sound-and-light show at the Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace, temples festooned with lights, and performances of lá·kon chah·ree (Thai classical dance-drama), lí·gair (Thai folk dance-drama) and modern-style historical dramas. A twist on the usual beauty contest showcases Phetchaburi widows.

Sleeping

Jomklow Hotel (0 3242 5398; 1 Th Te Wiat; r 130-170B) A welcoming Chinese hotel on the river. The rooms are very, very basic – think super-sized jail cell – but experienced budget travellers should be OK.

Rabieng Rim Nam Guest House (08 9919 7446; fax 0 3240 1983; 1 Th Chisa-In; s/d 120/240B) Bare-bones rooms are made up for by an excellent location in a riverside teak house with a yummy restaurant. Laundry service, bicycle and motorcycle hire, and tours to Kaeng Krachan National Park are also on offer. It’s a backpacker favourite.

Phetkasem Hotel (0 3242 5581; 86/1 Th Phetkasem; r 250-400B; ) Middle-aged dogs loll in reception at this slightly industrial place hunched under an overpass. Cheaper rooms don’t have air-con and the furniture is decidedly aged.

Sun Hotel (0 3240 0100; www.sunhotelthailand.com; 43/33 Soi Phetkasem; r 800-1500B; )