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park. Try the 4km (three hours) walk from the Km36 marker on the park road to the 18-tiered Nam Tok Tho Thip waterfall. A longer 6km hike summits Phanoen Thung, the park’s highest point. From the top there are lush forest views in all directions. It can be particularly spectacular in late autumn, when surrounding valleys are shrouded in early-morning mist. The hiking trail starts at the Km27 marker on the park road. Note that some trails, including the one to Phanoen Thung, are closed during the rainy season (August to October).

To the south, near La-U Reservoir, are the spectacular twin waterfalls of Pa La-U Yai and Pa La-U Noi. Water flows over their 15 tiers year-round. The waterfalls can be reached by 4WD from the south (closer to Hua Hin) along Hwy 3219.

Near the visitors centre is a reservoir where boats can be hired for 400B per hour.

Sleeping & Eating

There are various bungalows (0 2562 0760; reserve@dnp.go.th; bungalows from 1200B) within the park, mainly near the reservoir. These sleep from four to six people and are simple affairs with fans and fridges. There are also camp sites (per person 60-90B), including a pleasant grassy one near the reservoir at the visitors centre (where there’s also a modest restaurant). Tents (225B to 300B) can be rented at the visitors centre.

On the road leading to the park entrance are several simple resorts and bungalows. About 3.5km before reaching the visitors centre, A&B Bungalows (08 9891 2328; r/bungalows 650/1500B) is scenic and popular with birdwatching groups. There is a good restaurant here that can provide you with a packed lunch.

Getting There & Away

Kaeng Krachan is around 52km southwest of Phetchaburi, with the southern edge of the park 35km from Hua Hin. From Phetchaburi, drive 20km south on Hwy 4 to the town of Tha Yang. Turn right (west) and after 38km you’ll reach the visitors centre.

There is no direct public transport all the way to the park, but you can get a sŏrng·ta·ou (75B, 1½ hours) from Phetchaburi (near the clock tower) to the village of Ban Kaeng Krachan, 4km before the park. Go early as the last sŏrng·ta·ou leaves at 2pm. You can also charter your own sŏrng·ta·ou for around 600B one way, a decent alternative if you have a group. Motorcycle taxis (40B) run from Ban Kaeng Krachan to the visitors centre. An alternative is to join a trip from Phetchaburi, Hua Hin or Cha-am. In Phetchaburi, the Rabieng Rim Nam Guest House (08 9919 7446; fax 0 3240 1983; 1 Th Chisa-In) runs one- and two-day trips (2600B to 4000B) that include bird- and animal-watching, and trekking. Most travel agencies in Hua Hin and Cha-am offer day trips (1200B to 2200B).

CHA-AM

pop 46,000

At weekends and on public holidays, Cha-am is a getaway spot for provincial families and Bangkok students. Neon-painted buses deliver holidaymakers firmly in party mode, fuelled by cheesy pop music and ready to kick back for a couple of days. Mix in beach parties under shady casuarina trees, fresh seafood and cold beers delivered to your deckchair, and rip-snorting banana boats bobbing up and down the beach and you begin to see the attraction. Subtle it’s not, but hey, there’s nothing wrong with a bit of raucous Thai fun.

If you’re looking for something quieter, then come during the week when Cha-am returns to being a relaxed resort town and you’ll get an even better deal at the good-value guesthouses and midrange hotels. Chances are it will be just you and the ladies selling deep fried shrimps and grilled squid. Bliss…

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Orientation

Phetkasem Hwy runs through Cha-am’s busy centre, which includes the main bus stop, banks, the main post office, an outdoor market and the train station. About 1km east, via the main connecting road, Th Narathip, is the long beach strip where you’ll be headed. The road along the beach (and where beach accommodation and services are located) is Th Ruamjit. Air-con buses from Bangkok stop one block from the beach on Th Chao Lai.

Information

You’ll find plenty of banks along Th Ruamjit with ATMs and exchange services.

Communications