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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [460]

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Authority of Thailand (CAT; Th Narathip) For international phone calls.

CV Net (Th Ruamjit; per hr 40B; 9am-11pm) Internet access; on the beach road just before Soi North 7.

Post office (Th Ruamjit) On the main beach strip.

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 0 3247 1005; tatphet@tat.or.th; 500/51 Th Phetkasem; 8.30am-4.30pm) On Phetkasem Hwy, 500m south of town. The staff speak good English.

Festivals & Events

The Cha-am Feast-Fish-Flock Seafood Festival is a riot of Thai food stalls and kitschy pop music. It’s all set in a beachfront beer garden at the eastern end of Th Narathip and not to be missed if you’re around in late September/early October.

Sleeping

Cha-am has two basic types of accommodation: low-grade apartment-style hotels along the beach road (Th Ruamjit) and more expensive ‘condotel’ developments (condominiums with a kitchen and operating under a rental program). True bungalow operations are quite rare. Expect a 20% to 40% discount on posted rates for weekday stays. Compared to flashier Hua Hin, your money will go further in Cha-am.

BUDGET

Cha-am Villa Beach (0 3247 1241; www.chaamvillahotel.com; 241/2 Th Ruamjit; r from 500B; ) Its charm is fading a bit, but with a swimming pool, wi-fi and air-con, this is a good deal. The 500B fan rooms are bargains.

Nirundorn 3 (0 3247 0300; 26/171 Th Ruamjit; r/bungalows 600/1000B; ) One of several ‘Nirundorn’ cousins, this place wins with pillow-top mattresses and lounge chairs on verandahs that have peekaboo sea views. Bungalows are big, but face each other – you may as well go for the cheaper hotel-type room with a view.

Charlie House (0 3243 3799; Soi 1 North, 241/60-61 Th Ruamjit; r 650-800B; ) With pastel leather stools and accent lighting (even in the superbly designed bathrooms), this friendly place gets points for colour and flare. Don’t confuse it with Charlie Place or Charlie TV, both on the same soi (lane).

MIDRANGE

Nana Guesthouse (0 3243 3632; www.nanahouse.net; 208/3-4 Th Ruamjit; r from 900B; ) Rooms are clean and cheerful, if rather plain, and the price includes breakfast. Look for the purple and peach exterior at the north end of the beach.

Cha_Inn@Cha-am (0 3247 1879; www.cha-inn.com; 274/34 Th Ruamjit; r 900-1500B, bungalows 900-1200B; ) Modern and minimalist, this is Cha-am’s newest and sleekest digs. Rooms have bamboo mats over polished cement floors, honest-to-goodness art on the walls, and either a window seat or a verandah.

Dee Lek (0 3247 0145; www.deelek.com; 225/30-33 Th Ruamjit; r 1200-1500B; ) Bright rooms with crisp bed linen, spacious bathrooms and upholstered furniture that brings to mind Europe. There are two Dee Leks: Dee Lek 1 (on Soi Long Beach, on the north side of town) is better than Dee Lek 2 (on Th Ruamjit).

Sweet Home (0 3241 1039; 279/1 Ruamjit; bungalows 1500B; ) Sweet Home’s traditional wooden bungalows sit in a tropical garden. Inside things are a little cramped, but there is no denying their rustic charm at the right price.

Kaenchan Beach Hotel (0 3247 0777; 241/4 Th Ruamjit; r 2150-3300B, bungalows 1550-3260B; ) Cherry-coloured wooden buildings are ageing, but the somewhat worn pool area is splashy with kids enjoying their holiday and has good views.

TOP END

Baan Pantai Resort (0 3243 3111; www.baanpantai.com; 247/58 Th Ruamjit; r from 2200B; ) This family-friendly place has a huge pool and small fitness centre. It’s in the centre of all the action – you can hear the banana boats roar by the beach across the street. The staff don’t speak a lot of English, but they’re very friendly.

Casa Papaya (0 3247 0678; www.casapapayathai.com; 810/4 Th Phetkasem; r 3000-5000B; ) Designer Mexican chic runs riot at this terrific spot right on the beach 6km towards Hua Hin. The beachfront and sea-view bungalows have rooftop decks to enjoy the sunlight (or the moonlight), and inside there are king-size beds and bathrooms in wonderfully brave colours.

Eating

Beach vendors sell barbecued and fried seafood, and at the far northern end of the beach reasonably priced seafood restaurants can be found at the fishing pier.

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