Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [471]
Sun Beach Guesthouse (0 3260 4770; www.sunbeach-guesthouse.com; 160 Th Chai Thaleh; r 800-1000B; ) Neoclassical styling and bright yellow paint liven things up, while the rooms are super-clean and come with large verandahs. Frolic in the pool or Jacuzzi while gazing out to sea.
Prachuap Beach Hotel (0 3260 1288; 123 Th Suseuk; r 900-1000B; ) PKK’s newest hotel has crisp white linens and splashy accent walls for a bit of flair. One side has fabulous sea views, while the other has decent, though not exciting, mountain views.
North of Town
One kilometre north of town (just across the bridge) is a quiet beach which gets lots of Thai visitors at the weekend.
Happy Inn (0 3260 2082; 149-151 Th Suanson; bungalows 500B) Simple bungalows (no hot showers) face each other along a brick drive, and the two at the end have wooden charm and hang over the canal. The highlight here – besides the shy, friendly staff – is a sitting area over the mangrove-lined water.
Golden Beach Hotel (0 3260 1626; 113-115 Th Suanson; r 500-1200B; ) There’s a range of rooms here; for 750B you can have picture windows as well as views of both the sea and the canal. For 500B you’re looking at the parking garage. However, all rooms come with tiled showers and cane furniture.
Bangnangrom Guest House (0 3260 4841; 137 Th Suanson; r 700-1000B; ) Seven rooms are furnished in light wood, while painted brick decorates the roomy showers. All have air-con and tellies.
AO NOI BEACH
Heading 5km north from town, you reach Ao Noi Beach, where there’s a small market and blue fishing boats cluttered at the southern end.
Aow Noi Sea View (0 3260 4440; www.aownoiseaview.com; 202/3 Mu 2; r 800B; ) A three-storey beachfront hotel that has sea breezes, large bathrooms and linen drying on the line outside.
Ao Khlong Wan
To the south of town is Ao Khlong Wan.
Baan Forty (0 3266 1437; www.baanfortyresort.com; 555 Th Prachuap-Khlong Wan; bungalows 800-1200B; ) Spend your nights in concrete bungalows on a private beach, and spend your days relaxing on the sand or in the shady garden waiting for another huge meal. The friendly owner arranges tours and will hire you bicycles or motorbikes.
Eating & Drinking
Because of its reputation for fine seafood, Prachuap Khiri Khan has many restaurants. A local specialty is lah sm·lee dàat dee·o – whole cotton fish that’s sliced lengthways and left to dry in the sun for half a day. It’s then fried quickly and served with mango salad. It may sound awful, but the taste is sublime. An all-day market lines the street on Th Maitri Ngam, starting early in the morning. There are two excellent night markets; the more atmospheric is opposite the pier, but both are good with lots of different stalls.
Phloen Samut Restaurant (0 3261 1115; 44 Th Chai Thaleh; dishes 50-120B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) One of a few seafood restaurants along the promenade, with sea views and loads of seafood, this is a good option. The service would be better if the staff stopped watching Thai soap operas on the telly.
Ma Prow (08 5293 7278; 48 Th Chai Thaleh; dishes 80-160B; lunch & dinner) An airy wooden pavilion across from the beach that cooks up excellent lah sm·lee dàat dee·o. The music is an intriguing mix of Western and Thai –kind of like the clientele you’ll see here on a busy weekend.
Krua Chaiwat (0 3260 4534; 143/1 Th Sarachip; dishes 80-220B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) High ceilings and tiered floors appeal to those looking for a little ambience with their Thai food. The coffee isn’t bad, either.
MC Club Thailand (Th Chai Thaleh; noon-late) Half-heartedly decorated with motorcycle memorabilia (look for the single tyre), this bar is a good place to kick-start a big night in PKK. During the high season, the club sets up on the promenade beside the beach.
Getting There & Away
There are frequent air-con buses to/from Bangkok