Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [472]
There are frequent train services to/from Bangkok (2nd class 210B to 357B, 3rd class 168B, six hours). A 1st-class express departs Hualamphong at 7.30pm (1100B, 5¼ hours). Trains also run to Ban Krut (one hour), Bang Saphan Yai (1½ hours) and Chumphon (two hours).
Getting Around
Prachuap is small enough to get around on foot, but you can hop on a motorcycle taxi around town for 20B to 30B. Other destinations include Ao Noi and Ao Manao (50B). At Ao Manao motorcycles aren’t permitted past the gate unless both driver and passenger are wearing helmets.
* * *
DETOUR: DAN SINGKHON BORDER MARKET
Southwest of Prachuap Khiri Khan, near the narrowest slice of Thailand’s trim waist (12km from the coast to the border), is the Burmese border town of Dan Singkhon. Once a strategic military point, Dan Singkhon is now home to a more peaceful trade: the selling of orchids.
Beginning at dawn on Saturday mornings, Burmese appear, almost mysteriously, from a bend in the road just beyond the checkpoint, pushing handcarts piled high with the usual market fare, with the exception, of course, of orchids. Hanging from wooden frames, dripping from pots and spread across fabric on the ground, orchids in various stages of bloom fill the tiny valley on the Thai side of the border.
There’s not much here for tourists to buy and the plants generally don’t travel well in suitcases, so you’ll probably only be window shopping. However, the market has a festive vibe, with music blaring, colourful umbrellas lining the road and thatch ‘sales booths’ hidden under palms. You’ll need to arrive before noon to enjoy it, as the market closes at midday.
To get to Dan Singkhon from Prachuap Khiri Khan, head south on Hwy 4. After several kilometres you’ll see a sign for Dan Singkhon; from here you’ll head west about 15km before reaching the border.
* * *
You can hire motorbikes in front of the Hadthong Hotel for 250B per day. The roads in the area are very good and it’s a great way to see the surrounding beaches.
Kayaks are available for hire at a pet supplies store near the Hadthong Hotel. A two-person kayak is 100B per hour, and a trip to the nearby islands should take around three hours.
AROUND PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN
Return to beginning of chapter
Wat Khao Tham Khan Kradai
About 8km north of town, following the road beyond Ao Noi, is this small cave wát at one end of Ao Khan Kradai (also known as Ao Khan Bandai) – a long, beautiful bay. A trail at the base of the limestone hill leads up and around the side to a small cavern and then to a larger one that contains a reclining Buddha. If you have a torch you can proceed to a larger second chamber also containing Buddha images. From this trail you get a good view of Ao Khan Kradai. The beach here is suitable for swimming and is usually deserted. A motorcycle ride here costs 50B.
HAT BAN KRUT & BANG SAPHAN YAI
These two low-key destinations lie about 80km and 100km south of Prachuap Khiri Khan, respectively, and are a popular weekend and holiday destination for Thai tourists. During the week you’ll have the beaches largely to yourself and a few long-tail boats.
The main beach of Hat Ban Krut is along a road, making the 10km beach handy to cars and services, but detracting from a 100% peaceful beach experience. North of the headland topped by the Disneyland-like spires of Wat Tan Sai, you’ll find Hat Sai Kaew, which is quieter but slightly out of the way, making it a better beach experience.
Bo Thong Lang is a little cove where the still water stays clear