Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [473]
Bang Saphan Yai, 20km south of Ban Krut, is now experiencing development and there is good budget accommodation here. Islands off the coast to the south, including Ko Thalu and Ko Sing, offer good snorkelling and diving from the end of January to mid-May. Coral Hotel and Suan Luang Resort (Click here) in Bang Saphan Yai can arrange half-day diving excursions to these islands.
A couple of waterfalls decorate the area; Nam Tok Sai Ku tumbles into a valley spotted with pineapple farms.
When booking transport, don’t confuse Bang Saphan Yai with Bang Saphan Noi, which is a fisherman’s village 15km further south.
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Sleeping
HAT BAN KRUT
You’ll struggle to find true budget options here, but if you visit on a weekday you should secure a discount of 20% to 30%. Bicycles (100B per day) and motorcycles (300B per day) can be hired to see the surrounding area, and most accommodation places arrange snorkelling trips (350B to 450B) to nearby islands.
On the beach road south of the wát-topped headland, Ban Klang Aow Beach Resort (0 3269 5086; www.baanklangaowresort.com; bungalows incl breakfast 2300-3800B; ) has 79 one- and two-bedroom bungalows with large verandahs, hidden in leafy glades. Bicycles, kayaks and two swimming pools will get you hungry for your next meal at the resort’s restaurant.
The following places are on Hat Sai Kaew, north of the headland. Count on running up a substantial tab on motorcycle taxis if you want to frequent the wider range of restaurants on the main beach. An alternative is to hire your own two wheels.
Ban Kruit Youth Hostel (0 3261 9103; www.thailandbeach.com; dm 350-400B, bungalows 600-2600B; ) More like a resort than a hostel, this place has bungalows in a wide range of sizes. The cheapest are wooden huts with shared bathroom, and the ritzy beachfront ones have TV, air-con and hot water. Cheaper dorm rooms are available in the main building. There’s lots of greenery beside the long empty beach, a postage stamp–sized pool, and plenty of activities on offer. Breakfast is included and YHA cardholders get a discount.
Bayview Beach Resort (0 3269 5566; www.bayviewbeachresort.com; bungalows 1700-4800B; ) Sharing the same beach as the youth hostel, Bayview has fine bungalows amid shady grounds with a beachside pool. The spick-and-span bungalows range from small wooden numbers to large concrete ones with huge bay windows.
BANG SAPHAN YAI
There is accommodation on the beaches north and south of town. To the north are mainly midrange places, while to the south there is one flash resort and a few budget-priced bungalows. A good source of local information is www.bangsaphanguide.com; it’s worth checking out before your trip.
North of Town
Van Veena Hotel (0 3269 1251; www.vanveena.com; r 400-800B; ) The rooms are unexciting but undeniably spacious, though the carpeted ones have a bit of a funky smell. Downstairs there is a well-stocked minimart and across the road is a beachfront restaurant.
Sailom Resort (0 3269 1003; www.sailombangspahan.com; r 1900B; ) Soft lighting, house plants, and large verandahs – add these to a curved swimming pool, sleek decor, and grounds that look like a mini-golf course, and you’ve got one of the sweetest spots on the beach.
South of Town
The following are about 5km south of town. There is more budget accommodation here than on the northern beach or at Hat Ban Krut.
Patty Hut (08 6171 1907; bungalows 300-700B; ) This funky spot is right behind the Coral Hotel. The more-expensive rooms are a bargain, while the cheaper ones have mattresses on the floor. This is one place where you can both eat dinner with the family and get a tattoo. Bus stop pick-ups and drop-offs available.
Suan Luang Resort (0 3281 7031; www.suanluang.com; bungalows 480-680B; ) Run by a young, hip family, Suan Luang has simple wooden bungalows with fans or air-con concrete ones with TV and hot water. You’re 700m from