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By Root 4478 0

of Kra (the land bridge joining mainland Asia and the Malay Peninsula) is only 44km wide. In 1677 and 1793 Thai kings championed the idea, but the technology of the times was not up to scratch. When Burma (now Myanmar) became a British colony in 1863 the idea was floated again and Ferdinand de Lesseps, the successful engineer behind the Suez Canal, visited the area in 1882. By 1897 Singapore was an important regional trading hub, and Thailand and Britain agreed to shelve any canal plans.

During the 20th century the idea surfaced again, but the preferred site was moved south to join Nakhon Si Thammarat and Trang. In 1985 a Japanese design planned to use more than 20 nuclear devices to complete the excavation work, and most recently China has planned a US$25 billion Thai canal to secure a regional strategic and commercial advantage. The US is apparently watching very closely.

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Tourist Information Office (0 7750 4833; cnr Th Sala Daeng & Th Krom Luang Chumphon; 8.30am—4.30pm) Speaks OK English but supplies good information, especially about transport to/from Chumphon.

Wiratsin Hospital (0 7750 3238; Th Poramin Mankha) Privately owned; handles emergencies.

Festivals & Events

From mid-March to the end of April the Chumphon Marine Festival features folk-art exhibits, free shrimp, a windsurfing competition at Hat Thung Wua Laen and a marathon. In October, the five-day Lang Suan Buddha Image Parade & Boat Race Festival includes a procession of temple boats and a boat race on Mae Nam Lang Suan (Lang Suan River), about 60km south of Chumphon.

Sleeping

Instead of jumping on the next boat to Ko Tao or the overnight train back to Bangkok, consider breaking your journey on the beaches at Hat Thung Wua Laen or Hat Sairi. Since most people overnighting in Chumphon are backpackers on the way to Ko Tao, accommodation is budget priced and usually a good deal. Most guesthouses (and restaurants) book tickets to Ko Tao – the reason behind the common greeting, ‘Hello, where you go?’

BUDGET

Sanatavee New Rest House (0 7750 2147; 4 Soi Bangkok Bank; r 150-250B) If Suda’s two doors down is full, check the four rooms here. They’re small but clean, and have fans and shared bath. The owners occasionally roast coffee in the back yard and the smell can be pungent.

Farang Bar (0 7750 1003; farngbar@yahoo.com; 69/36 Th Tha Taphao; r 150-300B; ) A basic backpacker dive. Many travellers will find themselves deposited here for an hour or two after an all-night bus from Khao San Rd en route to Ko Tao. Rooms are ramshackle but the stone showers (for nonguests 20B) give an unexpected (and unintentional, we’re sure) spa-like feel. The restaurant isn’t worth bothering about.

Suda Guest House (0 7750 4366; 8 Soi Bangkok Bank; r 200-500B; ) Suda, the friendly English-speaking owner, proudly advertises ‘Probably the best guesthouse in town’ from an earlier edition of this guidebook. She’s maintaining her impeccable standards in six rooms with wooden floors and a few nice touches, such as soap in the showers, that you wouldn’t expect for the price. It’s very popular so phone ahead.

Sri Chumphon Hotel (0 7751 1280; Th Sala Daeng; r 280-600B; ) The dark hallways feel like lights out at Alcatraz, and the rooms are a bit scruffy. Some are more cheerful than others, with wood floors and furniture, so look at a couple before deciding.

Morakot Hotel (0 7750 3629; fax 0 7757 0196; 102-112 Th Tawee Sinka; r 420-540B; ) Despite a strange location behind a motorcycle dealership, the young, friendly staff make this a welcoming place. The rooms are a bit worn but bright, and the upper floors have lovely views of Chumphon and the hills around it.

Chumphon Gardens Hotel (0 7750 6888; 66/1 Th Tha Taphao; r 490B; ) This recently refurbished place with spacious rooms including cable TV is excellent value – as is the 80B breakfast.

View Resort (Hat Thung Wua Laen, r 500-700B; ) The nicest of a few simple bungalow operations on Hat Thung Wua Laen, the View has a good selection of fan and air-con rooms and a good restaurant.

MIDRANGE

Nanaburi Hotel (0