Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [476]
Had Sai Resort (0 7755 8028; www.hadsairesort.com; Hat Sairi; bungalows 800-2000B; ) The concrete rooms are small, but the couple of bungalows on a hillside feel like tree houses. It’s at the quieter end of Hat Sairi and is a good jumping-off point for day trips to nearby islands.
MT Resort (0 7755 8153; www.mtresort-chumphon.com; Hat Tummakam Noi; bungalows incl breakfast 950-1250B; ) This friendly spot on a quiet beach beside the Lomprayah ferry pier is a good place to break your journey before or after Ko Tao. Free kayaks are provided to explore offshore islands and the mangroves of the nearby Mu Ko Chumphon National Park. There’s no public transport and a taxi from Chumphon will cost around 350B. Call to organise transport.
Chumphon Cabana Resort & Diving Centre (0 7756 0245; www.cabana.co.th; Hat Thung Wua Laen; r & bungalows 1500-2300B; ) This place tumbles across haphazardly gardened grounds. The tangle of greenery and somewhat institutional buildings belie snazzy and immaculate rooms. There’s a giant swimming pool (and PADI courses on offer) and a little one for the kiddos. Of the 20 bungalows, two are wheelchair-accessible. A private shuttle bus (150B) runs to/from Chumphon.
Eating & Drinking
Chumphon’s night market (Th Krom Luang Chumphon) is excellent, with a huge variety and good street lighting. Come for the delicious food and linger for good photographs. Two other markets run during the day.
Beside Farang Bar on Th Tha Taphao, there is an unnamed food stall that sets up nightly at 4pm. Look for the white plastic furniture. A couple of curries with rice costs 30B. Near the corner of Th Tha Taphao and Th Poramin Mankha, a coffee stall selling Chinese doughnuts (10B) opens at dawn.
Yota Vegetarian (Th Sala Daeng; dishes 20-90B; 7am-5pm) Located beside Fame Restaurant, this hole-in-the-wall eatery has delicious self-serve vegetarian dishes. Add your own touch with overflowing plates of Vietnamese mint, holy basil and sliced cucumber.
Ban P’Tay (0 7757 0580; 45/9 Th Tha Taphao; coffee 40B; breakfast & lunch; ) An air-conditioned little cafe and bakery with sweet treats, iced coffees and giggly teenage employees. There are internet terminals and you can log on to the wi-fi network.
Kaew Sukiyaki (0 7750 6366; Th Tha Taphao; dishes 40-240B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Sukiyaki noodles of all kinds (cooked at your table) are the specialty here, and you can eat inside a cool room or in the large outdoor pavilion. The bar is popular with both locals and travellers.
Papa Seafood (0 7750 4504; 2-2/1 Th Krom Luang Chumphon; dishes 70-150B; lunch & dinner) The food (mainly seafood, obviously) is good, without being exceptional, but it’s a popular local hang-out. Next door is Papa 2000; after you’ve downed a few beers with your meal, you can head over to the sparkly discotheque and dance off your dinner.
Fame Restaurant (0 7757 1077; 188/20 Th Sala Daeng; dishes 80-220B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Despite also being called Khao San Restaurant, (gee, I wonder who they’re targeting), Fame has excellent Western breakfasts, tasty sandwiches using freshly baked bread, and real-deal cheeses like mozzarella and gorgonzola. Mmmm. A travel agency is attached, so you might get the hard sell mid-sandwich.
Montana (0 7750 2864; 116 Th Suksamoe; 6pm-1am) This bar has relatively authentic Western decor including stuffed animal heads (don’t worry, they’re fake), Budweiser neon and nightly gigs with the Big Boss Blues Band from 9.30pm. In the kitchen there are no concessions to the West with a zingy Thai menu.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
You have many options for getting to the small island of Ko Tao (Click here), as several piers service different types of boats. Most travel agencies provide free transfers for all but the slowest, cheapest ferries. Following is a summary of your numerous options.