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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [497]

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the west and south coasts. The northern coast has a few good beaches that feature modern amenities but feel relaxed and remote. The quiet eastern shore is virtually deserted.

About half of Ko Pha-Ngan’s population live in and around the small port of Thong Sala, where the ferries to and from Ko Tao, Surat Thani and Ko Samui dock.

Information

BOOKSHOPS

D’s Books & Café ( Map; 08 4667 7730) A carbon-copy of the successful bookshop-cum-cafe on Ko Phi-Phi, it’s a chill spot to grab an iced coffee while catching up on your holiday reading.

EMERGENCY

Police station ( Map; 0 7737 7114) About 2km north of Thong Sala. The police station in Hat Rin (near Hat Rin School) will not let you file a report; you must go to Thong Sala.

INTERNET ACCESS

Hat Rin and Thong Sala are centres of internet activity, but every beach with development now offers access. Rates are generally 2B per minute (3B in Hat Rin), with a 20B minimum (30B in Hat Rin) and discounts if you stay on for one hour. Places offering a rate of 1B per minute usually have turtle-speed connections.

INTERNET RESOURCES

Backpackers Thailand (www.backpackersthailand.com) A handy site managed by the island’s Backpackers Information Centre. Offers info on local news, transport and Full-Moon fun.

Phangan Info (www.phangan.info) An online version of the helpful island pamphlet available at most bungalows and the Thong Sala pier.

LAUNDRY

If you got neon body paint on your clothes during your Full-Moon romp, don’t bother sending them to the cleaners – the paint will never come out. Trust us, we tried. For your other washing needs, there are heaps of places that will gladly wash your clothes. Prices hover around 40B per kilo, and express cleanings shouldn’t be more than 60B per kilo.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Medical services can be a little crooked in Ko Pha-Ngan – expect unstable prices and underqualified doctors. Many clinics charge a 3000B entrance fee before treatment. Serious medical issues should be dealt with on nearby Ko Samui. All dental problems should be treated on Ko Samui as well.

Ko Pha-Ngan Hospital ( Map; 0 7737 7034; Thong Sala; 24hr) About 2.5km north of Thong Sala; offers 24-hour emergency services.

MONEY

Thong Sala, Ko Pha-Ngan’s financial ‘capital’, has plenty of banks, currency converters and several Western Union offices. Hat Rin has numerous ATMs and a couple of banks at the pier. There are also ATMs in Hat Yao, Chaloklum and Thong Nai Pan.

POST

Main post office ( Map; 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) In Thong Sala; there’s a smaller office right near the pier in Hat Rin.

TOURIST INFORMATION & TRAVEL AGENCIES

There are no government-run TAT offices on Ko Pha-Ngan, instead most tourists get their information from local travel agencies and pamphlets. Hat Rin has an ungodly amount of travel agencies, and there’s also a cluster within eyeshot of the Thong Sala pier terminus. Price competition keeps prices relatively stable (tickets in Thong Sala tend to be slightly cheaper), although scams and faulty bookings are common throughout.

Several minimagazines also offer comprehensive information about the island’s accommodation, restaurants, activities and Full Moon parties. Our favourite option is Phangan Info (www.phangan.info).

Backpackers Information Centre ( Map;0 7737 5535; www.backpackersthailand.com; Hat Rin) A must for travellers looking to book high-quality tours (diving, live-aboards, jungle safaris etc) and transport, the Backpackers Information Centre isn’t just for backpackers. It’s a travel agency that offers peace of mind with every purchase. The friendly owners, a husband-and-wife team, have travelled all over Thailand and dedicate their time to helping others discover the island and the rest of the country. They also run the Crystal Dive shop next door ( Click here) and offer a cosy internet lounge.

Dangers & Annoyances

Some of your fondest vacation memories may be forged on Ko Pha-Ngan; just be mindful of the following situations that can seriously tarnish your experience on this hot-blooded jungle island.

DRUGS

You’re relaxing

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