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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [498]

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on the beach when suddenly a local walks up and offers you some local herb at a ridiculously low price. ‘No thanks,’ you say, knowing that the penalties for drug-use in Thailand are fierce. But the vender drops his price even more and practically offers you the weed for free. Too good to be true? Obviously. As soon as you take a toke, the seller rats you out to the cops and you’re whisked away to the local prison where you must pay a wallet-busting fine. This type of scenario happens all the time on Ko Pha-Ngan so it’s best to avoid the call of the ganja.

Here’s another important thing to remember: your travel insurance does not cover any drug-related injury or treatment. Drug-related freak-outs do happen – we’ve heard first’hand accounts of partiers slipping into extended periods of delirium. Suan Saranrom (Garden of Joys) Psychiatric Hospital in Surat Thani has to take on extra staff during full-moon periods to handle the number of fa·ràng who freak out on magic mushrooms, acid or other abundantly available hallucinogens.

WOMEN TRAVELLERS

Female travellers should be extra careful when partying on the island. We’ve received many reports about drug- and alcohol-related rape (and these situations are not limited to Full Moon parties). Another disturbing problem is the unscrupulous behaviour of some of the local motorcycle taxi drivers. Several complaints have been filed about drivers groping female passengers; there are even reports of severe sexual assaults.

MOTORCYCLES

Ko Pha-Ngan has more motorcycle accidents than injuries incurred from Full-Moon tomfoolery. Nowadays there’s a system of paved roads, but much of it is a labyrinth of rutty dirt-and-mud paths. The island is also very hilly, and even if the road is paved, it can be too difficult for most to take on. The very steep road to Hat Rin is a perfect case in point. The island now has a special ambulance that trolls the island helping injured bikers.

SCAMS

There are no tourist police on Ko Pha-Ngan, which means that a greater percentage of tourists fall victim to various gimmicks. A common scam involves booking ‘first class’ bus or boat tickets only to find out that the transport is rickety at best, and the other passengers paid significantly less. Sometimes travellers fall victim to phantom bookings, in which the ticket agent made no reservations whatsoever. Many tourists have reported problems with transport between Bangkok and Ko Pha-Ngan – operators often rifle through bags placed in the luggage compartment of the bus.

Sights

For those who have grown weary of beach-bumming, this large jungle island has many natural features to explore, including mountains, waterfalls and spectacular beaches.

BEACHES & WATERFALLS

There are many waterfalls ( Map) throughout the island’s interior, four of which gush throughout the year. Nam Tok Than Sadet features boulders carved with the royal insignia of Rama V, Rama VII and Rama IX. King Rama V enjoyed this hidden spot so much that he returned over a dozen times between 1888 and 1909. The river waters of Khlong Than Sadet are now considered sacred and used in royal ceremonies. Also near the eastern coast, Nam Tok Than Prawet is a series of chutes that snake inland for approximately 2km.

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THE TEN COMMANDMENTS OF FULL MOON FUN

No one knows exactly when and how these crazy parties got started – many believe it began in 1987 or 1988 as someone’s ‘going away party’, but none of that is relevant now. Today, thousands of bodies converge monthly on the powdery sand of Hat Rin Nok to bump, grind, sweat and drink their way through a lunar-lit night filled with thumping DJed beats. Crowds can reach an outrageous 30,000 partiers in high season, while low season still sees a respectable 5000 pilgrims.

If you can’t make your trip coincide with a full moon but still want to cover yourself in fluorescent paint, fear not – enterprising locals organise Black Moon parties (at Ban Khai), Half Moon parties (at Ban Tai), Moon Set parties (at Hat Chaophao) and pool parties (at Coral Bungalows; Click here), which have nothing

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