Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [499]
Critics claim that the party is starting to lose its carefree flavour, especially since the island’s government is trying to charge a 100B entrance fee to partygoers. Despite the disheartening schemes hatched by money-hungry locals, the night of the Full Moon is still the ultimate partying experience, so long as one follows the unofficial Ten Commandments of Full Moon fun:
Thou shalt arrive in Hat Rin at least three days early to nail down accommodation during the pre–Full Moon rush of backpackers ( Click here for information about sleeping in Hat Rin).
Thou shalt double-check the party dates as sometimes they coincide with Buddhist holidays and are rescheduled.
Thou shalt secure all valuables, especially when staying in budget bungalows.
Thou shalt savour some delicious fried fare in Chicken Corner ( Click here) before the revelry begins.
Thou shalt wear protective shoes during the sandy celebration, unless ye want a tetanus shot.
Thou shalt cover thyself with swirling patterns of neon body paint.
Thou shalt visit Magic Mountain or The Rock for killer views of the heathens below.
Thou shalt not sample the drug buffet, nor shalt thou swim in the ocean under the influence of alcohol.
Thou shalt stay in a group of two or more people, especially women, and especially when returning home at the end of the evening.
Thou shalt party until the sun comes up and have a great time.
* * *
In the centre of the island, Nam Tok Phaeng is protected by a national park and is a pleasant reward after a short-but-rough hike. Continue the adventure and head up to Khao Ra, the highest mountain on the island at 625m. Those with eagle-eyes will spot wild crocodiles, monkeys, snakes, deer and boar along the way, and the viewpoint from the top is spectacular – on a clear day you can see Ko Tao. Although the trek isn’t arduous, it is very easy to lose one’s way, and we highly recommend hiring an escort in Ban Madeua Wan (near the falls). The local guides have crude signs posted in front of their homes, and, if they’re around, they’ll take you up to the top for 500B. Most of them only speak Thai.
Pha-Ngan’s stunning beaches are definitely worth visiting, however caution should also be exercised for those travelling on foot. The ‘Green Dot’ trail from Hat Rin to Hat Yuan is completely overgrown, as is most of the route between Chalok Lam and Hat Khuat (Bottle Beach). Save yourself the strife and charter a water taxi.
Hat Khuat, also called Bottle Beach, is a classic fave. Visitors flock to this shore for a relaxing day of swimming and snorkelling – some opt to stay the night at one of the several bungalow operations along the beach. For additional seclusion, try the isolated beaches on the east coast, which include: Than Sadet, Hat Yuan, Hat Thian and the teeny Ao Thong Reng. For more enchanting beaches, consider doing a day trip to the stunning Ang Thong Marine National Park ( Click here).
WáT
Remember to change out of your beach clothes before visiting one of the 20 wát on Ko Pha-Ngan. Most temples are open during daylight hours.
The oldest temple on the island is Wat Phu Khao Noi, near the hospital in Thong Sala. While the site is open to visitors throughout the day, the monks are only around in the morning. Wat Pho, near Ban Tai, has a herbal sauna (admission 50B) accented with natural lemongrass. The steam bath is open from 3pm to 6pm. The Chinese Temple is known to give visitors good luck. It was constructed about 20 years ago after a visiting woman had a vision of the Chinese Buddha who instructed her to build a fire-light for the island. Wat Khao Tham, also near Ban Tai, sits high on a hill and has resident female monks. At the temple there is a bulletin board detailing a meditation retreat taught by an American-Australian couple. For additional information, write in advance to Wat Khao Tham, PO Box 8, Ko Pha-Ngan, Surat Thani 84280.
Activities
DIVING & SNORKELLING
With Ko Tao, the high-energy diving behemoth, just a few kilometres away, Ko Pha-Ngan enjoys a much quieter, more