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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [500]

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laid-back diving scene focused on fun diving rather than certifications. Prices are about 2000B to 2500B cheaper on Ko Tao for an Open Water certificate, but group sizes can be smaller on Ko Pha-Ngan since there are less divers in general. Like the other islands in the Samui Archipelago, Pha-Ngan has several small reefs dispersed around the island. The clear favourite snorkelling spot is Ko Ma, a small island in the northwest connected to Ko Pha-Ngan by a charming sand bar. There are also some rock reefs of interest on the eastern side of the island.

A major perk of diving from Ko Pha-Ngan is the proximity to Sail Rock (Hin Bai), perhaps the best dive site in the Gulf of Thailand. This large pinnacle lies about 14km north of the island. An abundance of corals and large tropical fish can be seen at depths of 10m to 30m, and there’s a rocky vertical swim-through called ‘The Chimney’.

Dive shops on Ko Tao sometimes visit Sail Rock, however the focus tends to swing more towards swallow reefs (for newbie divers) and the shark-infested waters at Chumphon Pinnacle. The most popular trips departing from Ko Pha-Ngan are three-site day trips, which stop at Chumphon Pinnacle, Sail Rock and one of the other premiere sites in the area (see boxed text, Click here). These three-stop trips cost around 3800B and include a full lunch. Two-dive trips to Sail Rock will set you back around 2500B.

The following local dive operators are recommended:

Haad Yao Divers (08 6279 3085; www.haadyaodivers.com) Established in 1997, this dive operator has garnered a strong reputation by maintaining high standards of safety and customer service.

Lotus Diving (0 7737 4142; www.lotusdiving.net) This well-reputed dive centre has top-notch instructors, and owns not one, but two beautiful boats (that’s two more vessels than most of the other operations on Ko Pha-Ngan). Trips can be booked at their office in Chalok Lam, or at the Backpackers Information Centre ( Click here).

Sail Rock Divers (0 7737 4321; www.sailrockdiversresort.com) The responsible and friendly staff at Sail Rock satisfies customers at their purpose-facility, featuring air-con classrooms and a small wading pool. They are technically the closest dive school to Sail Rock, the Gulf’s best dive site.

OTHER WATER SPORTS

Jamie passes along his infinite wakeboarding wisdom to eager wannabes at Wake Up (08 7283 6755; www.wakeupwakeboarding.com; Jan-Oct), his small water sports school in Chalok Lam. Fifteen minutes of ‘air time’ will set you back 1500B (2500B for 30 minutes), which is excellent value considering you get one-on-one instruction. Kite-boarding, wake-skating and waterskiing sessions are also available, as are round-the-island day trips (2000B per person; a six-person quorum needed).

Coral Bungalows ( Click here) rents out a variety of aquatic equipment such as jet skis and kayaks. The friendly staff at the Backpackers Information Centre ( Click here) can attend to any of your other water-sports needs.

YOGA & MASSAGE

If you’re dropping the big bucks for lodging, then you probably have access to an on-site spa. Inexpensive massage parlours are aplenty in Hat Rin and Thong Sala. Others can be scouted along the main road connecting the two towns (although be wary of the shadier joints offering ‘happy endings’).

The Ananda Yoga Resort on Hat Chaophao, run by Agama Yoga (08 1397 6280, 08 9233 0217; www.agamayoga.com; Hin Kong, r 500B, bungalows 1200B, four night minimum), gets rave reviews from our readers for its holistic approach to the study of tantric yoga. The centre is often closed from September to December while its instructors travel to other locations around the world spreading the cosmic ohm. On the east coast, the Sanctuary ( Click here) is another popular retreat for yoga enthusiasts.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

The exceedingly popular Eco Nature Tour (08 4850 6273) offers a ‘best of’ island trip, which includes elephant trekking, snorkelling and a visit to the Chinese temple, a stunning viewpoint and Phang waterfall. The day trip, which costs 1500B, departs at 9am and returns

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