Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [503]
Cocohut Village ( Map; 0 7737 5368; www.cocohut.com; Hat Seekantang; r 600B, bungalows 1900-10,000B; ais) A super-social place unto itself, guests might forget that they are just up the street from the brouhaha on Sunrise Beach. The backpacker digs, with shared locker room–styled toilets, are slightly sub-par, however the pricier options, like the cliff villas and beachfront bungalows, are some of the best bets in Hat Rin.
Also recommended:
Drop In Club Resort & Spa ( Map; 0 7737 5444; www.dropinclubresortandspa.com; Bat Hat Rin; r 1500-12,000B; as) Ever-expanding resort in the heart of Hat Rin.
Phangan Buri Resort ( Map; 0 7737 5481; www.phanganburiresort.com; Hat Rin Nai; bungalows from 2700B; as) Upmarket but slightly uptight.
SOUTHERN BEACHES
The accommodation along the southern coast is the best bang for your baht on Ko Pha-Ngan. There are fleeting views of the islands in the Ang Thong Marine National Park; however, the southern beaches don’t have the postcard-worthy crystal waters you might be longing for. This section starts at the port in Thong Sala and follows the coast east towards Hat Rin.
Thong Sala
There’s really no reason to stay in Thong Sala, unless you’re paranoid about missing a morning ferry, or feeling ill and seeking medical attention nearby.
Bua Kao Inn (0 7723 7226; buakao@samart.co.th; s & d from 450-850B; ) If you’re looking for a town vibe rather than a strip of sand, Bua Kao is your best bet. The beds are comfy and the rooms are well kempt (although some have the faint smell of cigarette smoke) and the restaurant downstairs teems with chatty ex-pats.
Pha-Ngan Chai Hotel (0 7737 7068, 0 7737 7286; r 700-1200B; ai) Think ‘Soviet tenement meets tropical holiday’ and you’ll immediately spot this dowdy behemoth while landing at the Thong Sala pier. The convenient location is the hotel’s best feature, although you’ll need some cab fare to find a swimmable beach.
Ban Tai
The waters at Ban Tai tend to be shallow and opaque, especially during low season, but lodging options are well-priced compared to other parts of the island, and you’re not too far from Hat Rin.
Lifestyle Bungalows (08 5916 3852; bungalows 250-600B; ) A skin artist by trade, the owner has tattooed each fan bungalow with an eye-catching assortment of designs and colours. The cluster of sandy huts embodies the true essence of Ko Pha-Ngan; no capitalist nonsense here, just a sign saying ‘eat, drink and chill’.
Chokana (0 7723 8085; bungalows 400-1200B; ) Chokana is the Jabba the Hutt of huts; these wooden beachside bungalows are enormous. The bubbly owner genuinely cares about her clientele – the cabins have loads of personal touches such as wooden carvings and mosaics, and it feels as though all of the guests are repeat customers.
Coco Garden (0 7737 7721, 08 6073 1147; www.cocogardens.com; bungalows 500-1000B; ) The best budget spot along the southern coast, Coco Garden one-ups the nearby resorts with well-manicured grounds and sparkling bungalows that are almost pathologically clean. Free wi-fi available.
Phangan Great Bay Resort (0 7723 8659; fax 0 7723 8697; bungalows 1250-2000B; ais) Take your pick from motel rooms housed in a mauve structure, or comfy bungalows further afield that also make use of ostentatious colours like radioactive carrot and lime. Idle away the day trying to anthropomorphise the curious shape of the pool, or catch a movie on the TV in the restaurant.
Milky Bay Resort (0 7723 8566; www.milkybay.com; bungalows 1400-5000B; ais) Milky white walls, which permeate the grounds, are peppered with large black stones resembling the spots on a cow. These bovine bulwarks snake through the resort linking the airy thatched bungalows to the