Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [504]
Ban Khai
Like Ban Tai, the beaches aren’t the most stunning, but the accommodation is cheap and there are beautiful views of Ang Thong Marine National Park in the distance.
Lee’s Garden (08 5916 3852; bungalows 250-600B) If Lee’s Garden had a soundtrack, it would probably be Bob Marley’s greatest hits. The clump of comfy wooden huts is a wonderful throwback to a time when Pha-Ngan attracted a grittier backpacker who wasn’t fussed about hot showers or air-con.
Boom’s Cafe Bungalows (0 7723 8318; www.boomscafe.com; bungalows 300-1000B; ) Staying at Boom’s is like visiting the Thai family you never knew you had. The friendly owners lovingly tend their sandy acreage and dote on the contented clientele. No one seems to mind that there’s no swimming pool, since the curling tide rolls right up to your doorstep. Boom’s is located at the far eastern corner of Ban Kai, near Hat Rin.
Mac Bay (0 7723 8443; bungalows 500-1500B; as) Home to the Black Moon Party (another lunar excuse for Ko Pha-Ngan to go wild), Mac Bay is a sandy slice of Ban Khai where even the cheaper bungalows are spic and span. At beer o’clock, grab a shaded spot on the sand and watch the sun dance amorphous shadows over the distant islands of Ang Thong Marine National Park.
Morning Star (0 7737 7756; morningstarkpn@yahoo.com; bungalows 1190-2490B; as) This collection of wooden and concrete jungle cottages has spotless interiors; some rooms are furnished with noticeably ornate dressers and vanities, others have subtle dark-wood trimming. A dozen white wooden beach chairs orbit the adorable kidney bean–shaped swimming pool.
WEST COAST BEACHES
Now that there are two smooth roads between Thong Sala and Chalok Lam, the west coast has seen a lot of development. The atmosphere is a pleasant mix between the east coast’s quiet seclusion and Hat Rin sociable vibe, although the beaches along the western shores aren’t as picturesque as the other parts of the island.
Nai Wok to Srithanu
Close to Thong Sala, the resorts peppered along this breezy strip mingle with patches of gnarled mangroves. Despite the lack of appealing beaches, the prices are cheap and the sunsets are memorable.
Cookies Bungalows (0 7737 7499; cookies_bungalow@hotmail.com; bungalows 300-1000B; ) Cookie’s friendly service sets this bundle of bungalows apart, although the accommodation is a standard-issue assemblage of bamboo, thatch and wooden slats.
Sea Scene (0 7737 7516; www.seascene.com; bungalows 500-1700B; ) Sea Scene’s family-sized bungalows are sprawled along a tangle of old mangroves and offer front-row seats to the blazing sunsets over Ang Thong Marine National Park in the distance.
Grand Sea Resort (0 7737 7777; www.grandsearesort.com; bungalows 1200-3000B; as) A good choice for those wanting a bit of sand close to Thong Sala, Grand Sea feels like a collection of wooden Thai spirit houses.
Hat Chaophao
Like Hat Yao up the coast, this rounded beach is lined with a variety of bungalow operations. There’s an inland lake further south, and a 7-Eleven to cure your midnight munchies.
Sunset Cove (0 7734 9211; www.thaisunsetcove.com; bungalows 1500-3350B; ais) There’s a feeling of Zen symmetry amongst the forested assortment of boutique bungalows; the towering bamboo shoots are evenly spaced along the cobbled paths weaving through brush and boulders. The beachside abodes are particularly elegant, sporting slatted rectangular windows and barrel-basined bathtubs.
Pha-Ngan Paragon (08 4728 6064; www.phanganparagon.com; bungalows 2500-13,000B; ais) A tiny hideaway with seven rooms, Paragon has decor that incorporates stylistic elements from the ancient Khmer, India and Thailand, without forfeiting any modern amenities. The ‘royal bedroom’ deserves a special mention – apparently the canopied bed has been imported from Kashmir.
Hat Yao & Hat Son
One of the busier beaches along the west coast,